I'm not there, so I can't say so first hand, but...

... what I hear from My Sources in Beijing is:

- The air is much worse today, July 24 China time, with fifteen days to go until the opening ceremonies, than it has been in the last two weeks or so, even after the Big Shutdown of factories and traffic that began five days ago;

- Traffic is creeping up again toward pre-shutdown levels, as people apparently figure out ways to deal with the odd/even license plate rules (extra license plates, or whatever); and

- New security checks and bag inspections in the subway stations are leading to big snarls and mob scenes as people try to get down toward the trains, despite the crucial new subway lines that have just opened.

Will see for myself again in two days. I would assume that by the last weekend in July the air will have to be looking pretty good, as the athletes and officials and correspondents flock into town for an event that starts in early August.  Let's hope.