Sam Adams clean sold out at the usual-suspect supermarkets! Arrggh! At 12 kuai per 12 ounce bottle (just over $1.50), or not that much more than beer-store prices in the U.S., this was the main retail alternative to the hopeless, hopless local brews. Sure, it's six times as expensive as REEB or locally-made Tiger, but it's fifty times as good. This is a rare illustration of the "life in Shanghai"= "life in the Klondike" hypothesis, as we wait for the next shipment of provisions to arrive.

We want to hear what you think about this article. Submit a letter to the editor or write to letters@theatlantic.com.