American food has a reputation for being bland—but, according to historical gastronomist Sarah Lohman, “It's nonsense that Americans don't like spicy food.” Lohman is the author of a new book, Eight Flavors: The Untold Story of American Cuisine, which explores the stories behind the flavors that have come to define American cuisine. In this episode, she takes us on a journey through the history and science of black pepper, the oldest flavor described in her book, to the hot, new taste sensation that is Sriracha.
Ever since she spent a summer baking cakes in a living-history museum, Sarah Lohman has been fascinated by old recipes: collecting them, cooking from them, and reading them to try to understand the lives of generations past. She noticed that, over the years, different flavors have come and gone. For example, rosewater was the standard flavoring for desserts and baked goods in colonial America, until vanilla took its place. Lohman gradually assembled a timeline of taste, charting the arrival and disappearance of different flavors in American cuisine. From that, she distilled a list of eight flavors that became popular at different moments in American history—and have remained favorites ever since.