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Corby's Table
Articles currently available on The Atlantic Monthly's Web site

Corby's Table

Two for the Table
This year's must-have books on food.

Summertime and the Grilling is Easy
In Let the Flames Begin, Chris Schlesinger and John Willoughby show "how to achieve the perfect dinner cooked in summer twilight."

A Kitchen of One's Own
Corby Kummer on Barbara Haber's From Hardtack to Home Fries, a book that intertwines American history with the lives of some enterprising female cooks.

Chic & Simple Cooking
The perfect gift for the unconfident cook with a sophisticated palate.

The Curious Cook
Corby Kummer reviews How to Read a French Fry, Russ Parsons's investigation into the science of cooking.

No Taste Like Home
Corby Kummer extols the simple pleasures of David Page and Barbara Shinn's Recipes from Home, an all-American cookbook.

A Fortunate Crossroads
Corby Kummer on Fred Plotkin's La Terra Fortunata, a portrait of a region with "one of the worthiest and most complex cuisines in Italy."

Pasta With a Passion
Corby Kummer offers selections from Piero Selvaggio's The Valentino Cookbook—"one of the few Italian cookbooks I plan to keep on my shelf."

Israel on a Bun
Corby Kummer looks at Joan Nathan's new book on the food of Israel, a country not exactly known for its cuisine.

Napa Valley Blend
Corby Kummer on Terra: Cooking From the Heart of Napa Valley, and its authors' unique mix of Mediterranean style with a Japanese sensibility.

Revelations of Greece
Corby Kummer on Aglaia Kremezi's revelatory new Foods of the Greek Islands, a book that offers "a short course in how Greeks cook for themselves."

Confessions of a Cookie Eater
Corby Kummer makes a shameless plea to readers of Nick Malgieri's new Cookies Unlimited.

Bygone World of the Bialy
Corby Kummer on Mimi Sheraton's The Bialy Eaters, a food critic's account of her seven-year, still-incomplete search for the origin of the distinctive little onion roll that is often mistaken for a bagel.

The Chowder King
Corby Kummer on Jasper White's 50 Chowders, the latest from Boston's master seafood chef.

Simply Summer
Corby Kummer satisfies his fresh-herb lust with a new book by Lisa Cowden, Ladle, Leaf, & Loaf.

Tuscany, Reluctantly
Corby Kummer is tired of Tuscany, but he likes Pino Luongo's new cookbook, Simply Tuscan.

Matzoh Makeover
Corby Kummer on Jayne Cohen's The Gefilte Variations, a new cookbook offering multiple versions of Jewish holiday classics.

Ham and Beans to the Rescue
Weary of the Boston winter, Corby Kummer serves up "one of history's great couplings."

How to Cook (And How It Should Look)
Corby Kummer on James Peterson's Essentials of Cooking, a kitchen primer that should fascinate beginners and old pros alike.

Encylopedia Gastronomica
Corby Kummer makes his way through The Oxford Companion to Food—and still finds Room for Dessert.

Italian Soul Food
Corby Kummer serves up selections from Lynne Rossetto Kasper's The Italian Country Table.

Countercultural Cooking
Corby Kummer on Chez Panisse—the influential Berkeley, California, restaurant that started as a countercultural collective—and the new Chez Panisse Café Cookbook.

Charmed by Chile
A new collection of home-style recipes reflects the Chilean way of life.

Hail to the Chef
A tribute to Patrick Clark, a chef who was a model for many young African-Americans and an inspiration to other chefs.

Persian Apeal
Najmieh Batmanglij's A Taste of Persia, and the subtle yet persistent spices of Iranian cuisine.

Help! My Child Is a Vegan!
Corby Kummer on Vegetables Rock!—Stephanie Pierson's useful new guide for teenage vegetarians, and those who love them anyway.

Seasons and Seasonings
Selections from the new book by Amanda Hesser, who may be "the closest the new generation of writers on food comes to M.F.K. Fisher."

The Universal Grain
Selections from Seductions of Rice, a new guide to the grain's many flavors.

A Passion for Pastry
Two books that will have you dreaming of the perfect holiday dessert.

Soup With Style
The new book by Barbara Kafka, a cook who takes a fearlessly original approach to soup.

Mangia, Mangia in the Mountains
Corby Kummer heads to Abruzzo with Anna Teresa Callen, whose new book draws on culinary memories of this less-travelled Italian region.

Adventures in Grains and Greens
Paula Wolfert's latest Mediterranean explorations.

Vegging Out
The ultimate guide to eating your vegetables.

America's Favorite Crustacean
Jasper White gets up close and personal with lobster claws, tails, and tomalley.

A True Taste of Tuscany
A rare book that shows Italy unromanticized—and more appetizing.

Comfort Food
New reasons not to get out of bed in the morning.

Survival Cooking
In Ruth Reichl's new memoir, Tender at the Bone, food is about more than eating.

A Moveable Fiesta
A book on South America's well-traveled cuisine.

The Joy of Cookbooks
Just in time for the holidays, a look back over the year's best.

Culinary Arts & Sciences
A book to help one get wise to the whys of cooking.

Paradise Found
Fred Plotkin explains why Liguria's is "the great undiscovered cuisine of Italy."

The Perfect Oil
Olive Oil: From Tree to Table explains what makes an olive oil great—and then how to cook with it.

Weeds for the Wise
In Honey from a Weed, Patience Gray shows that the best salad ingredients might not be what you planted in the garden.

Older and Wiser
Carol Field travels to Italy to record the traditional dishes of the nonnas, or grandmothers, who are at the heart of Italian cooking.

The Great American Meat
In the Steak Lover's Cookbook—timed perfectly to summer cookouts and the American revival of red meat—William Rice describes with charm the various cuts of steak and how best to prepare them.

Lessons in Mediterranean Cuisine
Three recipes from Joyce Goldstein's Kitchen Conversations, accompanied by bits of wisdom that are as useful as they are appealing.

What's in a Noodle?
Simple savory recipes from Nina Simond's Asian Noodles demonstrate that there's much more to pasta than spaghetti and meat sauce.

Back to the Basics
In Good Cheap Food, culinary writer Miriam Ungerer helps scrambled eggs, omelets, and roasted chicken come into their own.

A Dictionary of Culinary Curiosities
The etymologies of "recipe," "lentil," and "apple-pie order" from Mark Morton's new Cupboard Love—and some dishes to go along with them.

Sweet Couscous—A Jewish Holiday Tradition
A recipe from Claudia Roden for Couscous Sucré "Seffa," a festive dish served at Hanukah in Morocco.

An Italian Meal for Autumn
Two recipes from Catherine Brandel—Ricotta Gnocchi with Roasted Wild Mushrooms and Shaved Vegetable Salad—which would be welcome at any Thanksgiving table or winter supper.

Pita Bread
Once mastered, the art of making pita bread yields satisfying results.

A Southern staple revisited.

Milky Way Tart
An American masterpiece that will melt in your mouth.

In Julia's Kitchen: Sweet and Sour Sole and Corn Relish
Recipes from two of Julia's favorite chefs, Jody Adams and Zarela Martinez.

Pepper and Onion Frittata Tart
A savory tart with a cornmeal crust.

Uncensored Chocolate
A forbidden paragraph ... and a recipe for chocolate pudding.

Corby's Holiday Cookies
Delicious holiday cookies from The Joy of Coffee .

Articles currently available on The Atlantic Monthly's Web site

Going With the Grain (May 2004)
True wild rice, for the past twenty years nearly impossible to find, is slowly being nurtured back to market. By Corby Kummer

Pride of Place (December 2003)
Oregon's artisan Pinot Noir growers are the garagistes of the Pacific Northwest. By Corby Kummer

Their Show of Shows (November 2003)
Backstage with a troubled, now legendary Sondheim musical. By Corby Kummer

Big Organic, Small Organic (October 2003)
Organic food may be coming from bigger and bigger producers, but the best flavor is still coming from organic farms, as a case study of good and great yogurt makes plain. By Corby Kummer

A New Chestnut (June 2003)
The work of a dedicated few may eventually restore America's blighted chestnut forests to their former vastness. One happy consequence can already be tasted. By Corby Kummer

Back to Grass (May 2003)
The old way of raising cattle is now the new way—better for the animals and better for your table. By Corby Kummer

Stuffed Smoked Sablefish (January/February 2003)
Pacific Northwest ingredients, Asian theme. By Corby Kummer

Grapes of Gascony (December 2002)
A vintners' cooperative in southwestern France is creating impressive new wines from rare old varieties.

Duck Sauce À La Bidouze (December 2002)
A simple—and libertine—Gascon dish.

Quinoa Soup (November 2002)
A traditional staple of the high, cool Andes.

Sole Cardinale (October 2002)
A variation on a Baltimore seafood legend.

Maine Certified (September 2002)
The potatoes of summer.

Champ (September 2002)
A one-dish supper of buttery mashed potatoes and greens.

Il Trappeto & la Peschiera (July/August 2002)
A pair of Italian restaurants worth building a trip around.

Gems in a Jar (June 2002)
Fresh fruit, carefully preserved, captures summer for your kitchen shelves.

Cal Pep (June 2002)
A Barcelona restaurant worth building a trip around.

Colvin Run Tavern (May 2002)
A Virginia restaurant worth building a trip around.

Fore Street (April 2002)
A Maine restaurant worth building a trip around.

Daniel (March 2002)
A New York City restaurant worth building a trip around.

The Cream of the Salt Pan (March 2002)
Fleur de sel, the best salt in the world, suddenly got less expensive.

Moore's Stone Crab (February 2002)
A Florida restaurant worth building a trip around.

Five Lakes Grill (January 2002)
A Detroit restaurant worth building a trip around.

Delfina (December 2001)
A San Francisco restaurant worth building a trip around.

Sweet and Intense (December 2001)
The wine that made Ontario famous.

Restaurant Vila Lisa (November 2001)
Introducing a new series: restaurants worth building a trip around.

Potato Salad (September 2001)
The German version is surprisingly light and intensely flavored.

The Stationery Self (May 2001)
There is no substitute for engraved writing paper.

In Lockstep with the Seasons (Apr 2001)
Cooking with nothing but what's in season seems punishingly severe as winter ends, but the exercise has year-round benefits.

An Alternative Beligum (Mar 2001)
Brussels and Bruges may be more obvious destinations, but Ghent and Antwerp are more fun.

Craftsman Cheese (December 2000)
A recent scare concerning raw-milk cheese was unwarranted—and should not deter consumers from one of the glories of the American farmhouse.

A Better Egg (October 2000)
The secret to the best eggs isn't freshness.

Ice Cream for Beginners (June 2000)
A make-your-own flavor that's powerful, sophisticated, and easy.

Slice of Life (February 2000)
A wonderland of Italian sweets in a most unlikely place.

Smoky Scotch (December 1999)
Earth, air, water, fire—the four elements combine to create a fifth.

The Sweet of the Sour (October 1999)
When it comes to vinegar, balsamic gets all the attention. It shouldn't.

Red Sauce Revisited (June 1999)
No longer is it a mark of shame.

Touring Turin (April 1999)
The place to experience the height of northern-Italian elegance isn't where most people think.

Doing Good by Eating Well (March 1999)
The founders of the Slow Food movement believe, happily, that the best way to preserve endangered regional foods is to consume them.

An Old-fashioned Christmas (December 1998)
Savoring the holiday season in Salzburg and Vienna.

Tuscan Tomatoes (September 1998)
Panzanella combines two ingredients Tuscans hold dear—fresh tomatoes and old bread.

Pesto by Hand (August 1998)
The oldest—and still the best—way to make most people's favorite pasta sauce need not be laborious.

Better Butter (June 1998)
An intentional and elusive sourness heightens butter's natural sweetness—and makes it worthy of being the featured rather than the supporting player

Belgian and Bubbly (March 1998)
Belgium's abbey-style ales, now being brewed in America, get their marvelously deep flavors from the méthode champenoise.

Sweetness and Light (December 1997)
Wines for dessert that are neither cloying nor overwhelming.

A Taste of Asia (November 1997)
Learning to cook Thai food can be a highlight of a trip to Thailand.

In a Fishbowl (September 1997)
Even an ocean away from the Mediterranean, anyone can bouillabaisse-class soup.

Citrus Preserved (April 1997)
Marmalade is a work of art that anyone can create—and with more ease than you may think.

The World as Your Oyster (January 1997)
How to eat well anywhere you go.

Currant Affairs (December 1996)
Cassis can come into your life in many ways—and all are suitable for the holiday season.

Salsa Without Tears (October 1996)
You don't have to go for the burn to appreciate the subtlety and tingle of Mexican food.

Molten Gold (September 1996)
With its origins in exotic nectars, honey can have flavors you would never expect.

Turn-of-the-Century Treasures (June 1996)
Stockholm, perhaps surprisingly, is an important showcase for both Art Nouveau and Arts and Crafts design.

Nuts I Love (April 1996)
Not all hazelnuts taste alike, the author learns after conducting a worldwide search, but they all make chocolate taste better.

Don't Call It Cognac (December 1995)
Some of the best cognac-style brandy is American.

Green-Hearted Italy (September 1995)
The best reason to visit Italy's Umbria region is the mystic landscape.

My Favorite Coffeehouses from US AIR Magazine (October 1994)
We're finally well supplied with places to sit and decide how to change the world, eat a little something, and maybe meet somebody who wants to change the world the same way.

The Best Coffeehouses in NYC from New York Magazine (May 1994)
After a few days of trekking from bar to bar, they all began to look like what I call a 'cafe in a box': the same marble counters with the same cute mile-high tea tray ... the same watery brewed coffee ... There are, thankfully, plenty of exceptions.

Coffee: The Wine of the Nineties from Travel and Holiday (February 1994)
The coffee shop is America's backfence hangout again--only this time coffee is an attraction, not an occupational hazard.

Copyright © 2001 by The Atlantic Monthly Group. All rights reserved.