Readers share their experiences of being an expatriate of African origin in a part of the world that doesn’t quite know what to make of them. The series was inspired by Ta-Nehisi Coates speaking with French journalist Iris Deroeux about his time living in Paris.
Our series has already hit several different countries experienced by black expats: China, Japan, South Korea, Laos, and the United States. Readers below add five more countries to that list: Ireland, Indonesia, Thailand, England, and Myanmar.
This first reader’s experience in Europe isn’t quite an expat experience, since she has now spent more years there than in her home continent of Africa, but many of the themes of her time in Ireland overlap with other expats’:
Hi there! My name is Lara, and I’m 22 years old. I was born in Nigeria and lived there till the age of six. We then moved to Lesotho, then moved on to Cavan, Ireland, where I’ve been since the age of nine—that makes it 13 years that I’ve called the Emerald Isle home.
Despite this fact, though, it can still feel like I’m a stranger here.
When I first moved here in 2003, I couldn’t understand why people kept being surprised that I spoke English fluently, that my parents both worked in the medical sector, and that I loved Kylie Minogue as much as the next person. The fact that we were middle-class Africans, and not refugees or asylum seekers, seemed like a shock to the system for many of the people in the small town we lived in.
To their merit, some people did try to make a conscious effort to be sensitive and normalise the fact that my siblings and I were the first and only black people in our school. I remember doing some colouring with classmates in my first month at school. Amanda said “pass me the skin colour” (what I would call peach), and Gillian replied, “you can’t say skin colour, because that’s not everyone’s skin colour.” Gillian will never understand how touched I was by her defence of my reality.
I can’t say I’ve ever encountered aggressive racism, but I’ve certainly experienced a number of microaggressions because of my skin colour. From guys asking if I taste like chocolate and declaring that they can “handle” me, to people asking where I’m REALLY from after I state that I’m from County Cavan. It’s like they don't understand how it cuts at a person when you question their identity with no other basis except for the fact that their skin has got more melanin in it.
I am Nigerian and I’m Irish; I can’t twerk, but I love Nicki Minaj; I braid my hair and I play field hockey; I speak Irish, Mandarin, and Yoruba. I am not just “that black girl”; I’m Lara—phenomenal woman, that’s me.
She also spent a year living and studying in Beijing (that’s her pictured above on the Great Wall). Next up is Kayla, who teaches at a vocational school in Semarang, a city in the Central Java province:
Indonesia has been … a challenge. I have never felt so “other” in my life. Staring from adults is endless, frowning from strangers is almost expected at this point, and I’ve counted six people within the past week who have taken my picture from afar, thinking that I can’t see them. I’ve also been offered whitening cream five times, once very close to my mostly-white cohort.
I am the only black person for thousands of miles in a culture that is completely different, and I knew this coming into the experience. One of the reasons I chose to pursue a grant in Indonesia was because of the challenges, but that doesn’t mean I take being uncomfortable as something that shouldn’t be addressed. For example, during a lesson on adjectives, I reprimanded students for laughing at students who are darker-skinned —mocking them with “African” and “hitam” ( meaning “black” in Bahasa)—and I have already told an adult to please not ascribe my beauty to being “impressive even though I’m dark.” I already have a Black Lives Matter lesson planned for my English Club this month using the #FergusonSyllabus curriculum.
All this said, my experience in Indonesia hasn’t been negative, just difficult. But through the challenges, I’ve grown up even more. For every insulting, frustrating thing that’s occurred during this short time, there’s a curious child eager to learn new vocabulary, a co-teacher inviting me to various events with their family, or a student who asks me to drink coffee with him and his friends because he noticed I “go to coffee shops a lot.”
Living abroad while black is tough—tougher in some places than others. But I do believe if you go into the experience believing that there is goodness in people, there’s a possibility of countering those experiences and achieving an experience you didn’t think possible.
Our next reader is an American expat in Rome who lived in Phuket, Thailand, from 2004 to 2015, and she says our expat series “reminds me of a TripAdvisor forum I contributed to in 2005.” Money quote:
[O]f all the countries that I have travelled to in North America, Europe, Asia and Africa, I have found Thailand to be the most problem-free. I am less aware of being black here except in all the best ways: celebration of my different beauty, music, cultural heritage, etc. Here, I am a rich farang (foreigner) like everyone else. It’s the color of the money that counts.
Further, I find that some Thai people may think that I am a curiosity: my natural hair, my curvaceous body, and my dark skin. I am always asked shyly “can I touch your hair?,” told that my skin is dam (black), but suay (beautiful) or complimented on my figure (which is hugely different from the skinny Thai beauties). They may be color-struck among themselves—white skin means higher class—but as I am not Thai, I am outside of this issue. They see me as a different kind of foreigner, but I get just as many if not more smiles.
The racist attitudes that I usually experience come from white Europeans and Americans (if one more person informs me which African country I am from, I will scream), but these people are mostly ignored by me. Thailand has not had the history of colonisation and slavery of African people as has the US and Europe, so there is no legacy to deal with. They are, however, subject to the same subtle racist messages via international media that every country is.
This next reader, Laura, touches on “my experience as a Black Canadian in the United Kingdom”:
I am a Canadian by birth, if not more so by mindset. My parents are of Caribbean origin. I know that I am black, but growing up in Winnipeg, I have never had to defend that fact, explain it, or even have to think about it much. I have traveled and lived abroad in several different countries over the past 10 years. When I moved to the United Kingdom in July of 2013, for a two-year stay, I was expecting a similar society as the one I had been raised in Canada, but instead I came into contact with a social structure I had not been prepared for.
To illustrate that experience, Laura points to an op-ed she wrote last year for the newspaper Barbados Nation. It reads in part:
I’m black. There I said it. Where I grew up in Canada, I never had to say it. It was never an issue. Even when I was the only black child in a classroom, and at one point in time an entire school, I never had to reinforce it. I never felt left out or that I was working an uphill battle against a system. I always thought I had received the best of both worlds in my upbringing—the Caribbean discipline and food and the Canadian . . . everything else.
But when I moved here [London], for the first time in my life my Caribbean heritage mattered. It was difficult at first when people wouldn’t accept my answer of Canada when they asked where I was from. [...] I’m fairly light-skinned for a black girl. Again, this never mattered while growing up. In fact, I had never really thought about it. I had always been “darker” than most of my friends. Moving here, I got questions of whether I was mixed as if this made a difference to how I was perceived or my abilities or my personality.
I had to start thinking about this: what does it mean when you’re the only black person in the room? Do I need to think about this? This pushed me to think about what it means to be me as a woman, as a black woman, as a Canadian black woman in the 21st century in a foreign country. Does my identity change depending on where I live? Should it change?
Should it? Email us if you have any strong views on the question. Here’s one more reader, Lillian Kalish, reflecting on her time spent in Myanmar:
At Htauk Kyant cemetery, an hour’s ride outside of bustling Yangon, the air is thick in the middle of monsoon season. Young couples swoon under the shade of umbrellas, oblivious to the surrounding gravestones of men who fought for the British during WWII. The cemetery is a lush respite for some, with its close-cut green grass, stone pillars, and, unusual in these parts, silence.
I, on the other hand, have come up here to mourn. I write only weeks after 13-year-old Tyre King was fatally shot by police, after Keith Lamont Scott and Alfred Olango—who bears an uncanny resemblance to my uncle—were also killed. Just the other day, another black transwoman was found dead, in a motel room in Alabama.
I touch the white pillars where engraved are the names of the roughly 90,000 West African soldiers who fought for the British Imperial Army. Is it comforting to know that black folks have graced and died on this land?
With a sporadic internet connection, I am transported from life in Myanmar—where restrictive laws reminiscent of Jim Crow leave the Rohingya minority on the verge of extinction—to life at home, in a fearsome, entangled America. Mourning black lives in Myanmar is a private ritual. With my white American expat friends, conversations become a fumbling of words. With my Burmese friends, particularly a few young poets—who use art to express their marginalized identities—our words forge some fragile kind of solidarity.
Recently, I reached out to a lifelong friend who like myself—queer, black, Jewish—does not know how to return to the States. “I feel guilty for leaving,” he said, from his current home in Mexico City. “There is so much else going on here.” With this distance, however confusing and isolating, it is easy to disconnect from home, and propel myself into Yangon with noisy, colorful, betel nut stained streets, an embryonic democracy unraveling itself slowly to the world.
As I walk past each gravestone, remarking on the multiplicity of scripts, creeds, and details denoting each loss, I am reminded of the reverberant words of Claudia Rankine on the limits of white imagination on black death. “There really is no mode of empathy,” she writes, “that can replicate the daily strain of knowing that as a black person you can be killed for simply being black.”
A known fact to me at home now weighs heavily abroad. I resort to traveling to cemeteries outside of the city, in search of black death and also a reminder of black life. It is a quest, if anything, for intentional contemplation. As Yangon is home to few black folks—though there are people of all darker skins—there is no one with whom to mourn. No one who feels the duality of this pressure, being caught in-between Myanmar and America.
I have written about this before while traveling through Tibet and thinking about the deaths of Eric Garner and Michael Brown. On my second stint in Asia, I find the words harder to come. That is, wherever I go, I cannot help but feel guarded any time a pair of eyes follows me. I clench up, tighten at the shoulders, too hyperaware to realize that it is not with violence that people approach me. These encounters are little blessings, fissures in my imagination of how it ends. These days the echoes of kids popping firecrackers to welcome Thadingyut, the festival of lights, sound a lot like gun shots and I remind myself that it doesn’t always end with death.
So far in our ongoing series of black expats reflecting on their time abroad, we’ve heard from: an African American woman who taught in rural South Korea describing the “systemic cultural ignorance and lack of awareness”—but “not racism”—among her students and neighbors; a less optimistic African American woman in China detailing her “weird and frustrating” time there; a racially-mixed man returning to his home in the American South during the mid 1960s only to feel like a foreigner there; and a black woman in Laos coming to love her dark skin for the first time.
Many more stories are forthcoming, including the two below centered on the global influence of African American music. Here’s Antoinette, an African American educator in Japan for 17 years:
Rural Japan was home for most of my adult life, and during my stay, I embraced the culture and fell in love with the people. Now, I am an awkward “repat,” coming to terms with having to adjust to life in a strangely unfamiliar New York City while longing for the tranquility of my second “home.”
So, why did I fall in love? Well, for the most part, I have found the Japanese to be the most hospitable people I have ever met. Of course, there was the occasional oddball, but even they were bearable because I felt there was no malice or disrespect in their actions.
I gave many of the colorful characters names to help me remember each experience ... because this sort of thing always happened. I met “Yo Baby Yo” at Mikuni Beach. I was with a group of expat teachers who decided to spend the day at the beach. Large groups of foreigners tended to attract unique characters, usually the more outspoken fearless Japanese with eccentric personalities. Yo Baby Yo was charmingly eccentric. He spotted us at the beach and made a bee-line in our direction. At first I thought nothing of it, because this always happened. Most of the time, one of the veteran expat teachers who had better language skills communicated with our self-proclaimed fans. But this time, Yo Baby Yo targeted me as the one to show off his language skills to. As my friends and I sat enjoying the beach, this brave young man approached and greeted me with a hearty “Yo, baby yo!” I was at a loss as to how I should respond. Restraining the urge to giggle. I said, “You speak English very well. Where did you study?” To which, he proudly proclaimed, “Thanks, I learned from the movies.” I did not have the heart to tell him how inappropriate his greeting was. I just listened to him chat about how cool he thought black people were.
Like Antoinette, this next reader, William Berry, saw firsthand the admiration that Japanese people have for music by black Americans:
I am an African-American male who spent two years working as an Assistant Language Teacher in rural Japan. The experience was one with many very high “highs” and many extremely low “lows.” However, I ultimately came away from the experience with a renewed appreciation for African-American culture and an awareness of how our cultural contributions reverberate all around the globe.
Some context: Since I lived in a small inaka town, the only Japanese people I was only really able to associate with were older Japanese adults and the small children I taught in schools every day since people in my age range (20-29) had left for larger cities. Because of this, I used a lot of my free time talking to older Japanese people and I was struck by both their awareness of and appreciation for African-American culture. Particularly, many older Japanese are avid jazz listeners (as shown, for example, by the Japanese releases of jazz CDs having a few Japan-only bonus tracks for the loyal domestic fan-base). People ranging from random taxi drivers to small bar owners would excitedly speak to me at length about their love of figures such as Charles Mingus and Charlie Parker.
Additionally, my experiences in my schools were mostly positive. The students, of course, had grown up seeing a black president on their television screens all of their lives so “black” and “American” were not two incompatible concepts for them. The Obama Factor, combined with students’ generally positive perceptions of figures such as Rev. Martin Luther King, Jr. and Michael Jackson, made my life there much easier.
Of course, there were some truly horrible moments I experienced due to my skin color in Japan, but I chalk those instances up to the actions of bad individuals more so than anything else. (Also, to be completely honest, these horrible moments are just as likely to happen to me here in the United States as they are to happen anywhere else.)
Overall, however, the Japanese people showered me with an appreciation and affection that I will never forget for the rest of my life. Knowing just how deeply and widely the artistic and cultural contributions of my people are admired by people around the world filled me with unspeakable pride.
It was curious that it took leaving the country for me to reach this level of pride. At various points in my life, I have been subjected to both an education system and the wider popular culture portraying black history/culture as a smaller, less important subsidiary of white culture/history, which is the supposedly the real American story. It was amazing to me that so many Japanese do not share this view. While too many people in the world do still unfortunately think in these terms, I think my time in Japan jump-started my process of personal healing. It is a personal source of solace and comfort during this difficult time in race relations in this country.
Another eloquent reader, Alicia, keeps our series going:
I just saw that you’re looking for black folks with experience living as expats. I lived in China for three years and Laos for two years and have just recently written about my experiences and kept a blog during my time in Laos.
Courtesy of Alicia Akins
Strangers always followed me around, touched, and stared. … I’ve read about black tourists in China being put off with the staring, touching, and following. What they’d interpreted as rudeness I saw as curiosity. It’s hard, as Americans, to know what it’s like to see a kind of person you’ve never seen before. It’s akin to how we might react to seeing a purple person walking down the street. I was their purple person.
Alicia’s other post, “The Race Chronicles—Movement 3: Black Beauty,” takes our discussion in a new, more uplifting direction—a black expat whose time abroad was affirming in a straightforward way: “My work in Laos had other positive effects on my self-image and ability to not just accept my blackness but take pride in it.” She continues:
Courtesy of Alicia Akins
Melanin was really to blame both for my hatred of hot weather and my eventual embrace of it. Lao people are many-hued and I found myself admiring the darker of their skin tones. My boss had the perfect skin color and I noticed it wasn’t that much lighter than mine. For the first time in my life, I truly began to see darker skin as beautiful.
I am the lightest-skinned person in my family. My mother and sisters are all darker than me. When I was young, my sisters teased that if I spent too much time in the sun I would get dark and never fade. I couldn’t risk it. I needed to stay light. For beauty’s sake, to be found physically attractive by people outside of my race—and I suspected even within it—I needed to be lighter. Sunbathing? Get real. The sun was my enemy. Colorism and not discomfort kept me indoors. [CB: For more on colorism and intraracial prejudice, see this robust reader thread.]
As I shed my fear of becoming darker, I began to love my color. At 29, I was finally comfortable in my own skin. This allowed me to enjoy all those experiences in the sun.
Read the rest here, and send us your own experiences and reflections living abroad while black—or any hue, for that matter, as we’d like to expand the discussion: hello@theatlantic.com.
The story of Kaylee Robinson, an Atlantic reader who experienced major culture shock as a black woman living in rural South Korea, struck a chord with other readers. Here’s Paul, who describes how, in a very real way, he was an expat in his own country:
I experienced something similar to Kaylee’s when my family moved from living on U.S. Army bases the first 16 years of my life (10 in West Germany) to Mississippi—in 1966. This was the last year before Jackson desegregated its schools. Talk about culture shock! The poverty was so great that most kids thought we were rich. (My father was one of the first Black sergeant majors and mom was a teacher.)
Because I’m very racially mixed, I forget some people think I’m White. It bemused me that Black kids wanted to touch my silky, almost straight hair. So yes, it caused a little bit of an identity crisis, but I lived and learned.
The next personal story comes from A.J. Martin, an African American reader in China:
I read about Kaylee’s experience in rural South Korea and I was shocked that she experienced that in a country that seems more open to other countries and cultures than China. I’m an expat in ShenZhen, an engineered cosmopolitan city. But I receive similar treatments as Kaylee’s because I’m not just a foreigner; I’m the only black foreigner many people have ever seen in real life. Many people stare at me every day when I’m walking around, sitting on a subway, even when I’m teaching at the adult language center I work at. I’ve had adult students ask me if I’m from South America, Africa, Jamaica or 2nd generation, because they can’t comprehend how a black person can be from the U.S.—even though the First Family is black.
The only people who understand this are people who received a great education or traveled around a bit. Those people usually translate to others how black people are American or British. I’ve had people ask me if my natural hair is manufactured, yell that I’m from Africa as if I’m disillusioned or lying about where I’m from, and then I’m constantly harassed by people who want to take a photo or video of me without my permission.
Let me not forget the whitening creams I’m suggested to buy by store clerks, or the time that a Korean Airlines employee wanted to know why I was flying into Hong Kong instead of Guangzhou—where most Africans fly into—all while holding my passport in his hand.
It’s exhausting. And my only support were two white American women who worked with me (they have since left) and the black expat groups that give me support and advice. I knew that I would be met with some ignorance and barriers because I’m not fluent in the language, but this is more than I bargained for.
I can’t be myself, and I usually escape to Hong Kong to feel normal or hide out in expat populated places. Those can be frustrating too, when I have to encounter expats from other countries who are racist.
It’s weird and frustrating, but I think this has opened my eyes to how people in different countries view me before even getting to know me. I am trying to see this as an opportunity to get thicker skin, and deal with my own humanity, because it is trying. And I want to learn how to deal with these kind of situations outside the U.S.
I’ve offered a workshop on African-American history, which garnered the questions “What do Native Americans look like? Are they white?” / “This guy is really light; is he black too?” / “What is Beyonce? No, What is she really?” The workshop was meant to focus on the subject lightly and offer exposure to a kind of identity. I’ve also taught a workshop on jazz, and everyone in the room was surprised that the genre was started by African Americans. Asian-American history failed because I didn’t know how to teach that effectively. I hope to find more creative ways to discuss the layout of the U.S. that Hollywood movies in China may not show.
I’m making the most of my time here, and I hope to see more of the silver lining in my experiences before I leave this country.
My colleague Ta-Nehisi spoke last night with French journalist Iris Deroeux about his time living in Paris and more broadly about race in France compared to the U.S.:
One of audience members of that Facebook Live session was Kaylee Robinson, who wrote in to hello@theatlantic.com to share her experience living in South Korea as a black woman and the cultural ignorance surrounding her race in the rural school she taught at. (If you’ve ever been a black expat yourself and would like to share your experience living abroad, please drop us a note.) Here’s Kaylee:
I lived and worked in South Korea for three years, and it was the most fascinating and frustrating experience of my life. I taught myself basic Korean and familiarized myself with Korean culture and traditions. While I was prepared in theory to immerse myself in the culture, I was unprepared for the daily racial and cultural microaggressions that came with being the first Black person that my students and colleagues had come in contact with. For example, after the initial Skype interview, my extremely friendly co-teacher casually mentioned how I was much nicer than she had expected. In fact, I was nothing like the angry Black drug dealers and criminals that she had seen on TV.
I taught in rural South Korea, about 1.5 hours from Seoul at a very small elementary school of about 70 students. My first day teaching the second graders highlighted how important my role was as a Black American English teacher. My class consisted of ten adorable, wonderfully excited students who were very curious about me and English class in general. One student came up to me and rubbed my hand and then looked at his hand: “Kaylee-teacher, brown no come off?” He thought my brown skin color was the result of a marker and was surprised that it didn’t come off. A million emotions and thoughts ran through my mind at the moment, some of which I was ashamed of when I remembered that this comment was from a 7-year-old child.
That same first month of teaching, a colleague asked if I had a gun back home because he thought all Black people did. My 5th and 6th graders didn’t understand my natural hair and touched it without asking. And virtually all of my students refused to believe I was American and must be from somewhere in Africa because to them Americans were only blonde and blue-eyed. Parents were frightened to speak to me simply because of what they had seen on TV shows and in movies. And in a small town, every time I walked out of my apartment building I was stared at incessantly. With such an onslaught of questions about my race and culture, I felt my Blackness being chipped away bit by bit, everyday.
To be clear, I don’t categorize these instances as racism. I categorized them as systemic cultural ignorance and lack of awareness. You can not blame children or their parents for lack of exposure to other cultures. (I blame the Korean government for not embracing cultural awareness at a national level, but that’s another story.) However, this same ignorance can easily be transformed into racism without proper education, as we see happen so often in America.
It was extremely frustrating and exhausting living in my Black body and living this particular expat life. Eventually, I connected with other Black American teachers in Korea and was able to share my experiences and acquire coping strategies. In time, I saw an opportunity to not just teach English, but to culturally educate my students and co-workers simply by existing in my Blackness. I spoke Korean outside of class, I learned KPOP songs, and I tried to always have a smile when answering difficult questions. These actions helped to challenge assumptions and bias attributed to my skin color. Kaylee-teacher was a human being just like them, just a brown version from America.
More importantly, I was able to introduce a few lesson plans on racism and discrimination to my 5th and 6th graders. One student even gave a speech on racism and related it to discrimination among East Asian races!
Through my genuine passion to teach and my fun spirited disposition, parents warmed up to me as well. Though my race became a focal point of my time in Korea, I utilized it as part of my teacher toolkit. Was it stressful and debilitating at times to have my Black body—skin, hair, and intellect—viewed as a teachable moment instead of as a human being? Yes. However, my particular experience of being Black and abroad provided a chance to stymie ignorance before it transformed into discrimination or racism. It was quite a rewarding feat when race relations back home felt, and continue to feel, stagnant.