Momofuku’s David Chang, whose stratospheric success launched a thousand pork-belly-stuffed buns, hip ramen restaurants, and kimchi-topped dishes, found his early realization that he was a trendsetter profoundly unsettling. Chang would walk into a new restaurant in Denver and find himself face-to-face with nearly half of his menu and the same minimalist plywood decor that he’d used at Momofuku Noodle Bar. “I try to take it with a grain of salt,” he said. “I try not to eat at those restaurants. I try to avoid them. It would be like watching the cover band of the band I wanted to see. It’s too meta-fucking-weird.”
— From The Tastemakers: Why We’re Crazy for Cupcakes but Fed Up With Fondue (Plus Baconomics, Superfoods, and Other Secrets From the World of Food Trends), by David Sax, published in May by Public Affairs
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