W. M. University of Virginia, $22.95. W. M., identity unknown, claimed to have cooked for Queen Henrietta Maria and published the favorite royal recipes in 1655. The book remained in use for years, and one can see why from this facsimile of the edition of 1671. Despite the extravagant use of spices (so mingled that not one of them overrules) and the calls for Beef Pallata and Stroakings withal, W. M.’s dishes are clearly savoury meats. They are also well described — W. M. gave measurements, times, and temperatures quite conscientiously and threw in a few warnings as well (too much flour w ill make your pudding sad and heavy). It is amusing to try to deduce from the text the tools available to a seventeenth-century cook. The eggbeater was unknown, but a still was standard equipment.