"Shrimp," Bubba Blue tells Forrest Gump, "is the fruit of the sea." You can take a group of the little crustraceans, he explains, and "barbecue it, boil it, broil it, bake it, saute it." You can put it in "shrimp kabobs, shrimp creole, shrimp gumbo." You can pan-fry it, deep-fry it, stir-fry it. You can include it in "pineapple shrimp, lemon shrimp, coconut shrimp, pepper shrimp, shrimp soup, shrimp stew, shrimp salad, shrimp and potatoes, shrimp burgers, and shrimp sandwiches."
Bubba didn't even mention the many culinary possibilities offered by your scampis and your tempuras and your lo meins. He didn't mention the simple glories of the shrimp cocktail. He didn't mention that shrimp is, officially, Americans' favorite seafood.
He didn't have to.
But for all the wondrous things shrimp are, there is something they are not, always: honest. You may have suspected that the crustaceans—what with their soft shells and their tiny legs and their tendency to turn from gray to pink in just the tiniest bit of heat—have their secrets. Now, we know they do. A third of the shrimp sold in restaurants and supermarkets are, a new study has found, misleadingly labeled. Farm-raised masquerading as wild-caught. One species masquerading as another.