To try Derek's recipe for the Kinloch Plantation Special, a whiskey punch made with marmalade, click here.
To be a craft bartender in this day and age you had better know your way around a hand squeezer, juicer, or reamer. One of the tenets of craft bartending is the use of fresh juices. This is something that living legends of bartending, such as Dale Degroff and Tony Abou Ganim, have ensured is a legacy for successive generations of bartenders.
But what if you don't have fresh fruit, or what if you're looking for the character of preserved fruits? After all, if we were to be sticklers for localism—which is the logical extension of fresh fruits and vegetables—we wouldn't be able to use many of the "fresh fruits" we use year-round, which are shipped from exotic locales and bear the carbon footprint of a Sasquatch.
And, in some cases, I prefer preserved fruits. Shrubs for one are a great addition to cocktails. These are juices preserved with vinegar, sugar, and alcohol. Their use dates back to colonial times. And then there's marmalade.
Marmalade comes in many varieties and even has different cuts, thick and thin. It's likely a descendant of quince paste, as the name itself is derived from quince, though it's typically made with bitter Seville oranges and sugar. I've heard it described as jam with orange peels, or, for those of us who grew up with Welch's Grape Jelly, jelly with actual fruit and their peels.