Those of us who love great lobster and have tried at least a few dozen lobster rolls in our lives have eaten some sublime ones, with tender HUNKS of flavorful lobster meat that weren't diluted with too much dressing, too many sidekicks. We got lobster, glorious lobster, without work, in big mouthfuls. And the memory of that keeps us going back for more.
It's an eternal quest in New England. Just the other night, we were at another stop with out-of-town visitors, who of course wanted one.
We were in a suitable place: Legal Sea Foods, one of two default choices for out-of-town fish-desirers (the other is Jasper White's Summer Shack), and of course we ordered a lobster roll. Two surprises: the bun from the New York bakery Tom Cat, the first I've seen of its good goods in Boston (they're staples in New York restaurants); and the abundance of the HUNKS of claw and tail meat Frank so desires. Also not too much dressing—very light mayonnaise and celery. What it lacked, as lobster outside of real seafood shacks does, is the saline tang and freshness you can get only along the coast.