SLIDE SHOW: Spicy, Fishy, Sour: Cooking in Southern Thailand
My trip in the south began with a feast at a friend's home, where we ate a pig whose parts made their way into curries, stir-fries and soups. No part was spared—simmered liver and intestines were first eaten by the men as a drinking snack just an hour after the pig was killed. Here, it's being butchered by the women in the family.
Jarrett Wrisley gathers traditional recipes in Nakhon Si Thammerat province in
A staff member at Koton carves a carrot. I didn't fare as well.
Jarrett Wrisley gathers traditional recipes in Nakhon Si Thammerat province in
In the center is a photograph of Koton, who came to the South of Thailand about 60 years ago and started a simple restaurant serving chicken rice and pork leg in the style of his native Hainan, China. Over the years, his business evolved into two restaurants, one very large and one smaller, serving Southern Thai and Thai/Chinese dishes.
Jarrett Wrisley gathers traditional recipes in Nakhon Si Thammerat province in
The flow of food at Koton runs through the wok stations of two cool-tempered cooks, who can easily serve 100 guests with speed and efficiency. Each of them works three woks at once. And get this, Gordon Ramsay—they treat each other nicely, too.
Jarrett Wrisley gathers traditional recipes in Nakhon Si Thammerat province in
 Jarrett Wrisley | The head chef serving a steamboat of tum yum goong, Central Thailand's ubiquitous soup. |
Jarrett Wrisley gathers traditional recipes in Nakhon Si Thammerat province in
Each day begins with a trip to Sichon's morning market, which opens around 4.30 am. The market unfurls down a main street.
Jarrett Wrisley gathers traditional recipes in Nakhon Si Thammerat province in
Different grades of gapi, the funky fermented shrimp paste that, along with turmeric and chili-laced curry pastes, is the base of much of Southern Thailand's pungent tastes.
Jarrett Wrisley gathers traditional recipes in Nakhon Si Thammerat province in
 Jarrett Wrisley | A women sells satho, sometimes called "stink bean" in English. Usually cooked with pork, prawns and a splash of coconut and curry, satho tastes a bit like bitter sulfur. Still, it's delicious. |
Jarrett Wrisley gathers traditional recipes in Nakhon Si Thammerat province in
After the market, we picked bird's eye chilies for the day's service. About 14 pounds of them. And that's only one type of chili in a kitchen with an arsenal of spicy stuff at its disposal.
Jarrett Wrisley gathers traditional recipes in Nakhon Si Thammerat province in
Here, a woman sells two types of curry paste—gaeng som and gaeng phet—at the morning market. Southern Thailand has a large Muslim community.
Jarrett Wrisley gathers traditional recipes in Nakhon Si Thammerat province in
 Jarrett Wrisley | I loved this simple chicken soup, cooked with lots of galangal, kaffir lime leaf, lemongrass, chili, and shrimp paste. It was served at one of our numerous staff meals. |
Jarrett Wrisley gathers traditional recipes in Nakhon Si Thammerat province in
This is khao kha moo, the braised pork dish from China that started it all at the restaurant. It's still one of Koton's signature dishes, and about the only one that isn't blisteringly spicy.
Jarrett Wrisley gathers traditional recipes in Nakhon Si Thammerat province in