All wine may want to be red, but not all wine drinkers want to wake up with a terrible headache--or get one almost immediately, as I have irritatingly experienced, given my love of red wine.

Now James McWilliams points out the existence of a genetically modified yeast whose developer claims that it greatly reduces the risk of a headache. You won't get any, at least not knowingly, from California or Canada, the only wine-producing countries that allow the use of genetically modified yeast in wine. And the wineries that do use it or too skittish to say so on the label, because of the failure of U.S. regulators pressured by industry to require the declaration on any label that the food or beverage within contains GMOs. And, of course, you won't get it in any organic wine, which also forbids the use (knowing, at least) of GMOs.

Suppose you want some, though, because you get fierce headaches? But you instinctively loathe the idea of permitting the use of GMOs, let alone knowingly consuming foods that contain them? McWilliams is a practiced provocateur who tells us things we need to know, even if they confuse us. And even when we haven't had a drop of wine.

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