Photo by xmatt/Flickr CC
Why is this about "molecular gastronomy" and not about bad cooking? There are plenty of lousy restaurants making "traditional" food, but the reaction when someone experiences one is not "Why aren't they using an immersion circulator and a pacojet?"
And they have a point. I feel much the same and said so toward the end of the review when I noted, "Maybe underneath the foams, powders, jellies, and bubbles there is something good here, but it's awfully hard to see that as it is now."
There are many traditional restaurants that cover up poorly executed food with heavy sauces or pretty garnishes, of course (as there are newer places that do the same with foams and gels). But these traditional restaurants don't get the buzz or accolades that places like La Vineria de Gualterio Bolivar do, and they certainly don't tend to charge the same prices.
And with the restaurant in question, it wasn't necessarily a case of badly-executed cooking (although that was a part of it). Those short ribs were wonderfully done, as I noted, but marred by the salt foam and Jolly Rancher jelly. The egg pocket was delicious, but the white truffle powder brought nothing to the party and only served to distract. And the same issue with the gelatos--there was good cooking here, but the team in the kitchen seemed to be doing everything they could to hide it.