Hitchens updates a classic:

It is already virtually impossible in the United States, unless you undertake the job yourself, to get a cup or pot of tea that tastes remotely as it ought to. It's quite common to be served a cup or a pot of water, well off the boil, with the tea bags lying on an adjacent cold plate. Then comes the ridiculous business of pouring the tepid water, dunking the bag until some change in color occurs, and eventually finding some way of disposing of the resulting and dispiriting tampon surrogate. The drink itself is then best thrown away, though if swallowed, it will have about the same effect on morale as a reading of the memoirs of President James Earl Carter.

Starbucks' London Fog or Earl Grey Tea Latte unsweetened is the best approximation of my mother's cup of cha that I have been able to find. Except she would proceed to add three teaspoons of sugar and one artificial sweetener.

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