Roll Reversal

;American Sushi by Trevor Corson
The Atlantic, June 2009

"Imagine my delight when I walked into a sushi bar one evening and found not only a welcoming neighborhood atmosphere, but a chef who explained that he doesn't serve bluefin tuna, because he doesn't want it to go extinct. And imagine my surprise that this restaurant was in western Massachusetts, and that the chef was a rambunctious American whose ancestors had come not from Asia but from Europe."

Jennie Rothenberg Gritz is a senior editor at The Atlantic, where she edits digital features.

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