Mississippi Melodies

In Twain's Wake by Wayne Curtis
The Atlantic, November 2007

"I stopped by the Delta Cultural Center and chatted with 'Sunshine' Sonny Payne, who's been hosting the King Biscuit Time blues radio show for 56 years. At the Malco Theater, I heard James 'Super Chikan' Johnson put on a terrific show using handmade guitars. At Bubba's Blues Corner record shop, ... Bubba Sullivan, took me outside to point out the curtained windows of a former nightclub where Robert Johnson used to play and an auditorium where Elvis once set local teenagers swooning. This moribund town is happily occupied by a host of spirits....."   &nbsp

Jennie Rothenberg Gritz is a senior editor at The Atlantic, where she edits digital features.

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