| [an error occurred while processing this directive] |  |  |
 |  | |
| ||
| |||||||
| |||||||
|
| ||||||
| |||||||
| |||||||
 |
[From The Pleasures of Slow Food, by Corby Kummer]
.....
Garibaldi FamilyCà di Gòsita Ligura, Italy 
iuseppe Garibaldi spent
many years as a Stevedore on the Genoa docks before being able to
make his family farm, in the steep hills of Liguria, thrive again.
With his savings, he convinced his mother, Maria Ines, to cook at a
tiny, lovely restaurant and inn, Cà di Gòsita, that he
opened in the farmhouse. The family specialty is cooking "under the
campana," or terra-cotta cloche, on the floor of a wood-fired
oven.Diners feel like guests in a farm family, because that's what they are. Fellow guests usually include local politicians and professionals who make their way up the hill for a taste of local history they simply can't get elsewhere anymore. Not every mother has the same knowledge of local food in her hands that Maria Ines does, nor a son willing to build a little house off the terrace just for the huge hearth. The most spectacular, and most Ligurian, thing that mother and son cook are testaroli, thick crepes cooked in molds, painted with pesto, and piled up like a stack of flapjacks. The molds, with medieval checkered patterns, are emblematic of this part of Liguria. So, of course, is pesto, made with the tiny-leaved basil that grows in plastic-coated greenhouses up and down the surrounding hillsides. Pesto alla Genovese
This pesto is good on almost anything—certainly crepes,
potatoes quartered and boiled (an especially popular combination in
Liguria), and maybe even pancakes low on sugar. If you've never made
pesto by hand, please try this recipe. Not only will you experience
the reanimating "exhilaration" the writer Patience Gray says comes
from pounding fresh, fragrant things, but you'll also have an
incomparably creamy pesto to put on pasta for a simple, yet full,
supper.Makes 1 cup, enough for 1 pound of pasta
2. Gradually add the basil leaves, continuing to pound. Add the pine nuts and both cheeses and pound into a smooth paste. 3. Add the 6 tablespoons olive oil, drop by drop, grinding the pestle in a circular motion until the pesto is completely amalgamated. Add more olive oil to adjust the taste or texture as you like. 4. Season with salt. NOTE: Add 1 or 2 teaspoons of pasta water to the pesto to make it creamy before tossing with pasta or potatoes.
Copyright © 2002 by Corby Kummer. All rights reserved. | [an error occurred while processing this directive] | ||||
|
Home |
Current Issue |
Back Issues |
Forum |
Site Guide |
Feedback |
Subscribe |
Search
| ||||||
