BlackbottomWhen relatives came from out of town,we would drive down to Blackbottom,drive slowly down the congested main streets --Beaubian and Hastings--trapped in the mesh of Saturday night.Freshly escaped, black middle class,we snickered, and were proud;the louder the streets, the prouder.We laughed at the bright clothes of a prostitute,a man sitting on a curb with a bottle in his hand.We smelled barbecue cooking in dented washtubs, and our mouths watered.As much as we wanted it we couldn't take the chance.Rhythm and blues came from the windows, the throaty voice of a womanlost in the bass, in the drums, in the dirty down and out, the grind."I love to see a funeral, then I know it ain't mine."We rolled our windows down so that the waves rolled over us like blood.We hoped to pass invisibly, knowing on Monday we would return safelyto our jobs, the post office and classroom.We wanted our sufferings to be offered up as tender meat,and our triumphs to be belted out in raucous song.We had lost our voice in the suburbs, in Conant Gardens, where eachbrick house delineated a fence of silence;we had lost the right to sing in the street and damn creation.We returned to wash our hands of them,to smell themwhose very existencetore us down to the human.
Cooking for yourself is one of the surest ways to eat well. Bestselling author Mark Bittman teaches James Hamblin the recipe that everyone is Googling.