The Natives Ate P.F. Chang's

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What Ezra, Matt and Megan said about the Times's self-consciously condescending mass review of the greater New York area's chain restaurants. I would only add that the concept behind the feature - sending food critics to write about popular establishments that almost never get reviewed - is perfectly sound; it's just the "let's treat this like an anthropologist's trip to darkest Peru" execution that's cringe-inducing.

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Ross Douthat is a former writer and editor at The Atlantic.

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