In and Over Scones

Where to find the best scones and toppings

By Corby Kummer

The Crumpet Shop, at the entrance of the Pike Place Market, in Seattle, makes the most authentic and best scone I know in the country—baked as a 3-inch-high round cake and served in wedges, with the light, moist, open-pored texture of a quick bread and a buttery color and flavor. You can buy a whole “cake” fresh and take it home, but the shop doesn’t do mail order, and it closes when it runs out of crumpets (big, yeasty English muffins) and scones, which is always about 90 seconds before you get there (1503 First Avenue, Seattle, WA 98101, 206-682-1598).

If you’re looking for a classic American-style scone—which is to say a buttery, somewhat flaky cross between a biscuit and a shortcake—look no farther than Concord Teacakes, a company the baker Judy Fersch built on her light hand for pastry. They arrive fresh, with or without currants or cinnamon chips (www.concordteacakes.com, 978-369-7644).

For my money, Katz and Company makes the best jams in the country. Its unquestioned stars are apricot and raspberry, which sell out practically before the crops come in. You’ll have better luck with the strawberry, with lots of fat strawberry chunks, for a couple of months at least (www.katzandco.com, 800-676-7176).

If you can’t find imported clotted cream, stick with the superior crème fraîche from Vermont Butter & Cheese Company—not quite as thick, and decidedly more tart, but as luscious as any English gentle­person could wish, especially muddled with fruit preserves. Allison Hooper, the company’s co-founder, also makes an excellent cultured butter—meaning butter with actual flavor—that would be great over hot scones. Now if she’d only sell buttermilk to go into them (www.vtbutterandcheeseco.com, 800-884-6287).

This article available online at:

http://www.theatlantic.com/magazine/archive/2007/09/in-and-over-scones/306122/