Where Sous Vide is (Sometimes Hidden) on the Menu

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Blue Hill, 75 Washington Place, New York City, 212-539-1776, and Blue Hill at Stone Barns, 630 Bedford Road, Pocantico Hills, New York, 914-366-9600, www.bluehillnyc.com. Pretty much every piece of meat and poultry you will be served at these two restaurants, which are named for chef Dan Barber’s family farm in the Berkshires, will have been raised on pasture and cooked by sous vide, the way Barber thinks best shows off pastured meat.

The French Laundry, 6640 Washington Street, Yountville, California, 707-944-2380, and Per Se, 10 Columbus Circle, New York City, 212-823-9335, www.frenchlaundry.com. Chef Thomas Keller views sous vide as an adjunct to more standard cooking methods, useful for certain vegetables and long-cooked cuts of meat like brisket. He is enough of an enthusiast that he plans to write a cookbook on the use of sous vide at home.

The Tasting Room, 264 Elizabeth Street, New York City, 212-358-7831. Although chef Colin Alevras had such a low budget that he had to buy his first sous vide equipment at deep Web discounts, he thinks it’s essential for getting the best flavor from the produce he buys directly from farmers and at farmers’ markets.

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Corby Kummer's work in The Atlantic has established him as one of the most widely read, authoritative, and creative food writers in the United States. The San Francisco Examiner pronounced him "a dean among food writers in America." More

Corby Kummer's work in The Atlantic has established him as one of the most widely read, authoritative, and creative food writers in the United States. The San Francisco Examiner pronounced him "a dean among food writers in America." Julia Child once said, "I think he's a very good food writer. He really does his homework. As a reporter and a writer he takes his work very seriously." Kummer's 1990 Atlantic series about coffee was heralded by foodies and the general public alike. The response to his recommendations about coffees and coffee-makers was typical--suppliers scrambled to meet the demand. As Giorgio Deluca, co-founder of New York's epicurean grocery Dean & Deluca, says: "I can tell when Corby's pieces hit; the phone doesn't stop ringing." His book, The Joy of Coffee, based on his Atlantic series, was heralded by The New York Times as "the most definitive and engagingly written book on the subject to date." In nominating his work for a National Magazine Award (for which he became a finalist), the editors wrote: "Kummer treats food as if its preparation were something of a life sport: an activity to be pursued regularly and healthfully by knowledgeable people who demand quality." Kummer's book The Pleasures of Slow Food celebrates local artisans who raise and prepare the foods of their regions with the love and expertise that come only with generations of practice. Kummer was restaurant critic of New York Magazine in 1995 and 1996 and since 1997 has served as restaurant critic for Boston Magazine. He is also a frequent food commentator on television and radio. He was educated at Yale, immediately after which he came to The Atlantic. He is the recipient of five James Beard Journalism Awards, including the MFK Fisher Distinguished Writing Award.
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