Five Noteworthy Sangioveses

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"Wine Therapy" (September 2006)
What makes the wines of San Patrignano so distinctive? It's not just the grapes. By Corby Kummer

Percarlo, San Giusto a Rentennano. The Martini di Cigala family makes what the authority Burton Anderson has called “the most virile pure Sangioveto,” made in the hills near Siena.

Castello di Ama, Chianti Classico. Managing Director Lorenza Sebasti and the winemaker Marco Pallanti have long stood for quality and stubborn individuality; all of their wines are worth trying (and their olive oil is too).

Riecine, Chianti Classico. This British-founded vineyard, originally part of the famous Badia a Coltibuono estate, has for more than thirty years produced exemplary Chiantis, now under the direction of the winemaker and co-owner Sean O’Callaghan.

Fattoria Paradiso, Sangiovese di Romagna. The variety of Sangiovese raised at San Patrignano, this one made by well-established and respected winemakers nearby, the Pezzi family of Bertinoro.

Avi, San Patrignano. San Patrignano’s big-deal all-Sangiovese wine, a consistent award winner. Its Noi, a blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot, is versatile enough to be a weeknight wine.

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Corby Kummer's work in The Atlantic has established him as one of the most widely read, authoritative, and creative food writers in the United States. The San Francisco Examiner pronounced him "a dean among food writers in America." More

Corby Kummer's work in The Atlantic has established him as one of the most widely read, authoritative, and creative food writers in the United States. The San Francisco Examiner pronounced him "a dean among food writers in America." Julia Child once said, "I think he's a very good food writer. He really does his homework. As a reporter and a writer he takes his work very seriously." Kummer's 1990 Atlantic series about coffee was heralded by foodies and the general public alike. The response to his recommendations about coffees and coffee-makers was typical--suppliers scrambled to meet the demand. As Giorgio Deluca, co-founder of New York's epicurean grocery Dean & Deluca, says: "I can tell when Corby's pieces hit; the phone doesn't stop ringing." His book, The Joy of Coffee, based on his Atlantic series, was heralded by The New York Times as "the most definitive and engagingly written book on the subject to date." In nominating his work for a National Magazine Award (for which he became a finalist), the editors wrote: "Kummer treats food as if its preparation were something of a life sport: an activity to be pursued regularly and healthfully by knowledgeable people who demand quality." Kummer's book The Pleasures of Slow Food celebrates local artisans who raise and prepare the foods of their regions with the love and expertise that come only with generations of practice. Kummer was restaurant critic of New York Magazine in 1995 and 1996 and since 1997 has served as restaurant critic for Boston Magazine. He is also a frequent food commentator on television and radio. He was educated at Yale, immediately after which he came to The Atlantic. He is the recipient of five James Beard Journalism Awards, including the MFK Fisher Distinguished Writing Award.

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