August, 301 Tchoupitoulas Street, 504-299-9777, www.rest-august.com. John Besh’s refined nouvelle French cuisine, with the post-storm addition of a few New Orleans classics, in an elegant building.

Clancy’s, 6100 Annunciation Street, 504-895-1111. Brad Hollingsworth’s uptown semi-club, serving undemanding and good Creole food.

Herbsaint, 701 St. Charles Avenue, 504-524-4114, www.herbsaint.com. Donald Link’s French American bistro, noted for its gumbo and its banana tart.

Lilette, 3637 Magazine Street, 504-895-1636, www.liletterestaurant.com. John Harris’s polished gem of an uptown French bistro.

Upperline, 1413 Upperline Street, 504-891-9822, www.upperline.com. JoAnn Clevenger’s cheering uptown restaurant, using local ingredients prepared simply, traditionally, and beautifully.