As Libyan War Drags On, Rebels Struggle to Stay Supplied

Behind the front lines, civilian volunteers form an ad hoc supply chain to keep the rebels fighting

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Rebels carry fuel and supplies to the front. By Youssef Boudlal/Reuters

BREGA, Libya -- It's not often in war that fighters roll to the front with nothing and come back with a bag of food, having eaten a hot meal and slept in warm blankets in the desert maybe 75 kilometers from the enemy's Grad missiles. Also rare is when that pack of rebels (or "revolutionaries," as those in Libya term themselves) organizes a successful three-front desert counteroffensive against the government's forces. But this is the war as Libya's relentless uprising has come to know it.

The last week has seen losses and gains on the elastic front line that runs west of Ajdabia towards Sirte. Despite vast discrepancies between rebel forces and Qaddafi's, and fears that Benghazi would be attacked again, Ajdabia remains safely in rebel control. The western front isn't quiet, but it is well supplied and now home to the beginnings of an actual army.

Tuesday night the rebels lost Ras Lanouf, for at least the second, and possibly the third, time. At a defense encampment close to the now-deserted oil town, volunteer rebel soldiers testified to a haphazard, homemade command structure and a lot of heart. "We just follow our feeling of where to go," said Abdulwahid Agoury, a 28-year-old accountant from Benghazi who decides where to drive the Hilux that also carries his two cousins and a couple of friends. Adel Sanfaz, a Kalashnikov-toting grocer and father of five, said he and his crew rely on walkie-talkies to coordinate movements. "Qaddafi has more soldiers and more equipment. We just go back and forth -- when he uses heavy artillery, we retreat. When he stops, we advance."

At dusk, the heavy thunk of Qaddafi's Grads, firing from the direction of Ras Lanouf, shook the sandy earth. Hundreds of men jumped into civilian cars or graffitied, rebel flag-waving Toyotas with varied artillery mounted in their flatbeds. Drivers sped off into the dusk under cover of friendly antiaircraft rounds from the crews who maintained the defensive line. These volleys sent trails of red through the darkening sky directly over the heads of the fleeing vehicles that kicked up clouds of sand as they drove into one line of fire to escape another.

After a few minutes, the frenzy slowed. Trucks pulled off at a checkpoint well east of Ras Lanouf to regroup and eat steaming platefuls of rice and beans by the headlights of a few trucks, delivered to the battlefield straight from Benghazi restaurateurs who prefer to remain nameless. "We have food for 1,000, 1,500. All Benghazi did this together," said one. "Someone comes every day bringing food. All Libyans help each other." Truckloads of bottled water -- used for drinking, washing before prayer, the toilet -- were handed out, along with chocolate biscuits.

The night ride down the desert road was chilly and bone-rattling. In the open flatbed, about a half dozen people clung to the giant cannon as they shared blankets and tried to find comfort atop dozens of cannon rounds for the 106 and spare canisters of bensin, on account of which a fairly earnest no-smoking policy was observed.

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Clare Morgana Gillis is a freelance journalist based in the Middle East. She recently completed her PhD in history at Harvard University.

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