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Iranians Who Don't Use Twitter
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The peripatetic Graeme Wood visits Qom:
This was the Iran that remained not only un-Twittered but without any desire to Twitter, that was content with things as they were already, and perhaps as they were quite a long time before that, too.What happens in Qom stays in Qom. Graeme finds the holy city content to live under one-party theocratic rule:
Despite their conservatism, Qom's pilgrims seemed motivated not by passion for Ahmadinejad--I never heard anyone say his name, though the "Leader" Ali Khamenei was mentioned repeatedly over outdoor loudspeakers--but by a total denial of politics, and a preference for something much simpler. In Tehran the previous week, I'd heard many rumors about protests, violence, provocation. Here I saw no sign of disloyalty to the government (save one: on a campaign bumper sticker with a picture of Ahmadinejad next to the slogan Man of the People, someone had scraped out his eyes and cheeks). Instead, I felt the opposite of the idealistic flurries of this summer's protests--the happy docility of a one-party state.
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