Italy's Version of a Neighborhood Deli

By Faith Willinger
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Photo by Faith Willinger


I'm wild about 'ino, a gastronomic gem--gourmet-grocery-meets-sandwich-shop, in Florence, between the Uffizi gallery and the Arno River. Owner Alessandro Frassica has selected some of Italy's greatest artisanal products. The display case in the front room is packed with choice Italian cheeses (many raw milk), including 36-month-aged Parmigiano-Reggiano from the milk of special red cows, and a fine selection of salumi, flanked by a red Berkel (think Ferrari) slicer.

There are lots of items on the shelves to tempt--sauces, my favorite pasta from Gragnano; some of Alajmo's In.gredienti products like their irresistible bagigi (sweet and spicy peanuts), cookies, and preserves; Pariani's hazelnut oil; Dario Cecchini's mostarda; artisanal beer; and a small but lovely selection of wine. There's even a tiny freezer with two flavors of Carapina's fine gelato.

This is the perfect place to purchase a culinary souvenir of Florence, or the meal for your flight home.

But there are lots of wonderful gourmet groceries in Italy--what makes 'ino so special are the sandwiches, all made to order. Alessandro has sourced terrific bread and schiacciata (what the rest of Italy calls focaccia), which he fills with the finest products from his shop in classic and creative combinations.

You can make up your own combination, or opt for a salumi or cheese tasting paired with condiments. Sit on a stool at the counter in the front room, or around wine barrels next door. Alessandro doesn't have a wine license but can include a glass when you purchase a sandwich--or you can buy a bottle of wine or beer which he can open and you can serve yourself. This is the perfect place to purchase a culinary souvenir of Florence, or the meal for your flight home.

Note: Visitors shouldn't miss another neighborhood gem, the Contini-Bonacossi Collection, like a mini-Uffizi without the crowds or lines, donated to the city of Florence by the family. They also own the winery, Capezzana, a personal favorite.

This article available online at:

http://www.theatlantic.com/health/archive/2009/08/italys-version-of-a-neighborhood-deli/22773/