Good Food Award Finalist Sour Puss Makes One Mean Pickle

How Chris Forbes, an unemployed Brooklynite, turned his at-home operation for making Christmas gifts into a successful company

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The Good Food Awards are back -- after an inaugural year that brought Alice Waters to the podium, Andrew Barnett to the judging panel, and arame and ginger sauerkraut salad to the table. The not-for-profit organization led by Sarah Weiner and Dominic Phillips has just announced the finalists for a 2012 contest that has set out, in the long-term, "to change the way America feeds itself." Selected out of 926 contestants, the 144 finalists range from an eight-person goat cheese dairy in Harrisburg, Missouri, to a 400-person brewery in Colorado. United by a taste for such delectables as Abominable Winter Ale, Duck Liver and Apple Mousse, and "Devil Sauce," the contestants also share a desire to cultivate and produce with sustainable practices.

Sour Puss Pickles, a two-time finalist and one-time winner, is a company with what is beginning to sound like a familiar story. Born out of a tenacious Brooklynite's stint with unemployment, Sour Puss went from a home operation of Christmas gifts for Chris Forbes' buddies to a company that puts out a mean pickle -- cucumber, ghost pepper, or Thai chile in brine, with classic, spicy, and kirby spears; roasted beets; wax beans; plus relish and chutney. And to the small operation, business means face time with farmers, friends in Brooklyn, and a secret recipe of ramps available in nine-ounce, shelf-stabilized jars.

The Atlantic caught up with Forbes to discuss everything from vinegar choice to the economic downturn to the Good Food Awards, themselves.

What is unique about the peppered okra that won the award last year?

Okra is a tough beast. A lot of people are put off by the texture alone. But, spending some formative years in Texas myself, I learned to embrace the versatility of the vegetable. It is a great vehicle for spice and smokey elements. In our case, we simply infused some basic elements: spice, a smokey pepper from Syria called Aleppo, earthy elements achieved through cumin and coriander, and apple cider vinegar. Sourcing of the okra was probably the most integral part. The skins have to be pretty thick, and the farm that grows the okra harvests at the right time, so the vegetable contains the key amount of crunch or snap.

Can you tell me the story of how Sour Puss Pickles started, and how you became involved? Specifically, how did you know you wanted to do this for a living?

We got started a little under two years ago, basically from scratch pickling whatever we could find at the farmer's market. There was something buzzing in Brooklyn, regarding food. It seemed like everyone was making something, reacting to what was going on around them (the economic downturn, the war in the Middle East, etc.). There was a real call to simplify life and create something with our collective hands. Personally, I had been pickling ramps for a while and giving them away as gifts to friends for birthdays, Christmas, etc. I was without a job and figured I could do this -- I could really make a living from making pickles. My business partner, Evelyn Evers, and I decided to create this venture. It evolved from there. In many ways, the whole thing was a knee-jerk reaction from something that had been brewing from deep inside. And the time was ripe to actualize this feeling.

Why do you believe in sourcing locally?

Sourcing local is the key to our business. The negative impact outsourcing labor has on the environment and on labor wages is enormous. We have all seen the impacts over the past century, from the striping of the fertile soil of the Midwest, to the deforesting of parts of the rain forest and the depletion of our natural resources. I could go on and on, as to why purchasing "organic" cane sugar from Brazil is negative from a humane standpoint as well as from an ecological standpoint. But, the true essence of sourcing local is all about flavor of the product and a greater sense of community. Vegetables grown down the street just taste better. I can say this because I'm in the middle of a couple of very fertile areas, where organic and sustainable practices are implemented (namely, Lancaster County and the Hudson Valley).

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Daisy Atterbury writes about art, books, food, and the occasional mishap in Paris, where she is based. Her work has appeared online in Technikart, BOMB, The New Yorker, and The Paris Review.

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