In January, a great controversy was unleashed upon poor, unsuspecting Gallic diners: the publication of the French edition of Jonathan Safran Foer's Eating Animals. The continental connoisseurs of steak frites were treated to a peculiarly American strain of modern foodies: the eco-moral-foodieism of le yuppie. Foer, notre chaton, shouldn't you have warned them first? The result, of course, has been something akin to the reaction when eco-moral vegetarian tracts along the lines of Eating Animals first began making real inroads with American popular culture.

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