How could I refuse an invitation to the rebirth of Enzo Coccia's pizzeria La Notizia? He's my favorite Neapolitan pizzaiolo , a true maestro. I once took part of his pizza course—the dough session, which was very, very interesting. Enzo's old pizzeria was tiny and has now been converted to take-out only. The new place is modern: red-tiled pizza oven with LA NOTIZIA spelled out on a white background, a trail of lights on the ceiling, wine and beer displays. Of course the pizza is divine, worth a voyage for pizzaholics like me. The take-out pizza boxes, with a mouthwatering photo of a whole pizza, are wonderful, made of recycled materials for a select group of pizzerie that use only superior ingredients. Clearly La Notizia qualifies.
At the opening, Luciano di Meo was serving hand-sliced prosciutto made with his heirloom black pigs—I stayed at his agriturismo farm a few months ago, loved the products, and had a terrific lunch. Artisanal beer maker Mario Cipriano (Lucinano's friend and neighbor) paired his beer with Enzo's pizza. Good call.
I stayed at the aptly named Hotel Paradiso, in nearby Posillipo, away from the bustle of Naples. The breakfast room on the terrace has a breathtaking view of Vesuvius and the bay, as well as an ample spread. Double rooms have terraces with the same view; singles overlook a wall. Parking is free. But there's another great reason to stay at the Paradiso. Across the street, Eugenio Aiello's bar-pasticceria La Botteghina has an amazing selection of wine, Champagne, and distillates, which makes it a perfect stop for an aperitivo, served by Eugenio's son Andrea at tiny tables, with cheese, salumi, and savory pastries. There's also have a fine assortment of traditional Neapolitan pastries—pastiera, ricotta-stuffed tarts, sugar-coated doughnuts (called graffe in local dialect).
Pizzeria La Notizia, via Caravaggio 94/A, tel. 081-1953-1937, open evenings only, closed Mondays
Bar Pasticceria Botteghina, via Orazio 106, tel. 081-660-516, closed Tuesdays