Open for Business: The Best Pizzeria in Naples?

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Faith Willinger


How could I refuse an invitation to the rebirth of Enzo Coccia's pizzeria La Notizia? He's my favorite Neapolitan pizzaiolo , a true maestro. I once took part of his pizza course—the dough session, which was very, very interesting. Enzo's old pizzeria was tiny and has now been converted to take-out only. The new place is modern: red-tiled pizza oven with LA NOTIZIA spelled out on a white background, a trail of lights on the ceiling, wine and beer displays. Of course the pizza is divine, worth a voyage for pizzaholics like me. The take-out pizza boxes, with a mouthwatering photo of a whole pizza, are wonderful, made of recycled materials for a select group of pizzerie that use only superior ingredients. Clearly La Notizia qualifies.

At the opening, Luciano di Meo was serving hand-sliced prosciutto made with his heirloom black pigs—I stayed at his agriturismo farm a few months ago, loved the products, and had a terrific lunch. Artisanal beer maker Mario Cipriano (Lucinano's friend and neighbor) paired his beer with Enzo's pizza. Good call.

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Faith Willinger

I stayed at the aptly named Hotel Paradiso, in nearby Posillipo, away from the bustle of Naples. The breakfast room on the terrace has a breathtaking view of Vesuvius and the bay, as well as an ample spread. Double rooms have terraces with the same view; singles overlook a wall. Parking is free. But there's another great reason to stay at the Paradiso. Across the street, Eugenio Aiello's bar-pasticceria La Botteghina has an amazing selection of wine, Champagne, and distillates, which makes it a perfect stop for an aperitivo, served by Eugenio's son Andrea at tiny tables, with cheese, salumi, and savory pastries. There's also have a fine assortment of traditional Neapolitan pastries—pastiera, ricotta-stuffed tarts, sugar-coated doughnuts (called graffe in local dialect).

Pizzeria La Notizia, via Caravaggio 94/A, tel. 081-1953-1937, open evenings only, closed Mondays

Bar Pasticceria Botteghina, via Orazio 106, tel. 081-660-516, closed Tuesdays

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Faith Willinger is a chef, author, and born-again Italian. She moved to Italy in 1973 and has spent over 30 years searching for the best food from the Alps to Sicily. More

Faith Heller Willinger is a born-again Italian. She moved to Italy in 1973 and was seduced by Italian regional cooking. Faith has spent more than 30 years searching for the best food and wine, as well as the world beyond the table from the Alps to Sicily. She has no regrets about mileage or calories. Faith was awarded the prestigious San Pellegrino award for outstanding work as an ambassador of Italian cooking. She lives full-time in Florence with her Tuscan husband, Massimo. Her son Max lives in Milan. She's the author of the bestselling (9th printing) guidebook Eating in Italy, the cookbook Red, White & Greens, and the narrative recipe book Adventures of an Italian Food Lover. Faith teaches in her kitchen in Florence on Wednesdays, supplied with freshly picked produce from her favorite farmers. Check out her web site at www.faithwillinger.com.

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