Chinese Dishes Praised by Confucius Himself


Andrew Coe

Chinese restaurants, over 46,000 of them, dot every city, town, and suburban mall across the United States. The foods of China have woven themselves into our culinary fabric, but how well do we really know Chinese food?

I ask this question not just because I happen to love Chinese cuisine. I also wrote a culinary history called Chop Suey: A Cultural History of Chinese Food in the United States (Oxford University Press, 2009), which is in many ways a long litany of misunderstandings at the Chinese dinner table. Americans have been eating Chinese food for 226 years—we first visited China in 1784—but our pace of learning about one of the world's great food traditions has been painfully slow. It took us a century to fall in love with it—and even then we ate chop suey, which we considered the "national dish of China"! We didn't realize that there was such a thing as Chinese regional cuisine until the publication of Buwei Yang Chao's seminal cookbook, How to Cook and Eat in Chinese, in 1945, and it didn't dawn on us that the Chinese-American food we liked wasn't what the Chinese ate until Nixon's 1972 trip to China. Even today, the vast majority of our 46,000 Chinese restaurants specialize in dishes that a visitor just off the plane from Beijing would not recognize as Chinese.

So what impedes our deeper understanding of one of the world's great cuisines? A good place to explore this question is Flushing, Queens, with its crowds and cacophony of signs in Chinese, Korean, and English. Here we can unearth regional cuisines most of us have never heard of, like the food of Shandong province, which has just appeared in Flushing over the last year or so. It turns out that Shandong isn't just any regional style but one of Chinese cuisine's foundation blocks, the food of the Han Chinese heartland near Beijing. That combination of being totally new (to us) yet still essentially Chinese makes Shandong cuisine an ideal proving ground to test our chopsticks, to judge how adept we are at bridging the culinary gap.

Joining the throngs on the Flushing sidewalk, a visitor isn't too far removed from the Americans in 18th-century Canton, intensely curious about the foreign life of the city. The difference is that they were squeamish about any food outside the North Atlantic culinary tradition, viewing Chinese market stalls with amazement, and often horror, and preferring not to taste. To us, the mingled aromas of soy sauce and sesame oil bring only the question: what's for lunch? The answer is found in the shopping malls that line Flushing's Main Street, each a warren of tiny booths where vendors sell everything from phone cards to Chinese patent medicines to Shandong-style dumplings.

Salivary glands are triggered by the fine aroma of boiling pork, but two centuries after Americans first visited China, we still haven't mastered the language. The counter women at the Best North Dumpling Shop speak only Mandarin, and the translations on the menu give only a rough idea of what's offered. It's best to just point at what the other diners are having; they turn out to be delicate-skinned and savory bite-sized morsels stuffed with a finely minced blend of pork and sour cabbage, a delicious gateway drug for Shandong cuisine.

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Andrew Coe's book, Chop Suey: a Cultural History of Chinese Food in the United States, was published in July 2009 by Oxford University Press. More

Andrew Coe's book, Chop Suey: a Cultural History of Chinese Food in the United States, was published in July 2009 by Oxford University Press. The Wall Street Journal called it "a wide-ranging look at the interaction of Chinese food and American society and a fascinating melange of gastronomic tidbits and historical nuggets." He has written for Saveur, Gastronomica, and the New York Times, is a coauthor of Foie Gras: A Passion, and has contributed to the Oxford Companion to American Food and Drink. He is currently researching a culinary history of the Great Depression.

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