The flow of food at Koton runs through the wok stations of two cool-tempered cooks, who can easily serve 100 guests with speed and efficiency. Each of them works three woks at once. And get this, Gordon Ramsay—they treat each other nicely, too.
Jarrett Wrisley gathers traditional recipes in Nakhon Si Thammerat province in
Spicy, Fishy, Sour: Cooking in Southern Thailand.