In Former East Germany, a Search for Lost Foods



When I was planning a recent trip to Berlin, it was not the Brandenburg Gate, the Pergamon Museum, or even Checkpoint Charlie that topped my must-do list. Sampling the city's best currywurst—that unique combination of chopped hot dogs drowned in curry powder-spiked ketchup—came close, but it didn't make my number-one spot, either. No, the place I most longed to visit was Ostkost, a small shop that specializes in foods from the former German Democratic Republic (GDR, a.k.a. East Germany).

I had first become aware of Ostkost a few years ago, after hearing about Ostalgie—a portmanteau of the German words for "nostalgia" and "east" —an early 2000s phenomenon connoting nostalgia for life in the GDR. The Ostalgie movement coincided with the brilliant 2003 film Good Bye, Lenin!, which recounts the tale of Alex, a teenager who chooses to recreate life in the GDR for his mother, an ardent Communist who collapses into a coma just before the fall of the Berlin Wall. She awakens eight months after the Wall topples, but the doctors tell Alex that anything too shocking might kill her. So while the outside world reflects a Technicolor explosion of consumerism, Alex recreates a small slice of GDR life in his mother's apartment, foraging for cast-off clothes at thrift stores and weathered boxes of food in abandoned apartments, emblems of their past life.

When Ostalgie swept Germany, all the cool kids in Berlin (many who were barely out of diapers when the Wall crashed down) were throwing GDR parties, fetishizing Trabant cars, and, apparently, shopping for East German foodstuffs. Personally, I was five years old and living in a comfortable New York City apartment when the Berlin Wall fell, which is about as far as you can get from Stasi headquarters.

Can you be nostalgic for something you have not personally experienced? The word "nostalgia" comes from the Greek nostos, meaning return, and algos, meaning suffering. As Milan Kundera poignantly wrote, "Nostalgia is the unappeased yearning to return." I might not have been raised on Globus peas or Spreewald pickles like Alex in the film, but my childhood brushed with Socialism when my family moved to Budapest, Hungary, in the early 1990s. Just as Burger King and Coca-Cola were the first emblems of modernity in Good Bye, Lenin!, they, too, were well-established in Budapest when we arrived there in 1993. But I can't imagine that early '90s Budapest, where life was shrouded in the same mustard-yellows, mauves, and army greens, and whose drab, gray buildings reflected drab, gray skies, differed much from the GDR, at least from a culinary standpoint. Finding lettuce at the supermarket during the winter months in 1993 in Budapest was laughable, and Western products remained scarce. One of the most exciting moments of our two-year stint in Hungary was the day when an unexpected shipment of Camp maple syrup appeared in our neighborhood supermarket located on Batthyány Tér. As my mother and I practically wept with joy for this familiar reminder of home, the bottles ironically went untouched by the Hungarians, who considered them ridiculously costly at about five dollars apiece and who also simply didn't know what to do with them.

In Good Bye, Lenin!, food and food choices symbolize progress (in another telling scene, Alex's older sister quits college to work at Burger King). As Alex narrates, "Overnight our drab corner store became a gaudy consumer paradise and I was its king." But when he goes shopping for his mother's favorite products from the GDR , he encounters difficulties:

"Mocca Fix?" he asks a shopkeeper.
"We don't have that any more," she says.
"Fillinchen crisp bread?"
"Not in stock anymore."
"Spreewald pickles?"
"Boy, where have you been hiding? ... We have Western money now and you want Mocca Fix and Fillinchen?"

When I told my friends in Berlin that I wanted to go to Ostkost, I was met with similar reactions. But why? And so I made the trip to Prenzlauer Berg, where Ostkost is located, alone.

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Lauren Shockey is a New York City-based food writer. She is the author of the recently released Four Kitchens, a memoir of learning to cook around the world. More

Lauren Shockey is a writer for the Village Voice who specializes in culinary journalism. Her articles have appeared in a variety of print publications including The New York Times Style Magazine, Gastronomica, ELLEgirl, Zink, and BRIDES, among others. Online, her writing can be found at Metromix New York and at Notes on a Party, where she blogs about restaurants and chefs. She is also the 2008 recipient of the Culinary Trust/Julia Child Foundation's grant to study culinary traditions in France. A Phi Beta Kappa graduate of the University of Chicago where she majored in French literature, Lauren also holds a diploma in culinary arts from The French Culinary Institute and is currently pursuing a Master of Arts in Food Studies from New York University. In her spare time she enjoys playing squash, reading, and baking cannelés. She was born, raised, and is currently living in New York City.

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