In Brooklyn, Lettuce, Not Steel, Scrapes the Sky

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Lucas Foglia


At 20 years old, when I was a very susceptible young thinker, I read Wendell Berry's essay "The Pleasures of Eating." To this day, it remains the most powerful essay I've ever read about food.

Beginning with the simple assertion that "Eating is an agricultural act," Berry deftly unfolds the tragedy of the modern American food system, then lays out a short charter of actions for the ecological eater. He ties our good health to food sovereignty: the ability to grow our own food, or at least understand where it comes from. He links food quality to healthy soil, healthy soil to good farming, and better farming stewardship to the sustainability of our watersheds, our country, and the planet. To eat well is as simple as maintaining a healthy curiosity about the connection between dirt and dinner.

The essay concludes with a list of common-sense ways an eater can do this. He asks that we cook for ourselves, try to grow our own food, make friends with farmers, and investigate the stories of our favorite plants. I can remember exactly what I did next when I finished the article: everything, precisely as he suggested.

In the seven years since, I've read countless more essays by Wendell Berry, and by many other good thinkers and doers. Some, like Berry or Keith Stewart in Port Jervis, New York, both farm and write eloquently about their experiences. And as I read, I grew—both intellectually and in my garden. I learned how to raise vegetables. As an undergraduate, I started in West Africa with chocolate (because I like to eat it). I graduated, got a seasonal job at the New York Botanical Gardens, and over the five winters that followed, traveled to nine countries, returning each spring through fall to farm and garden back in New York City.

Today, I farm a 6,000-square-foot roof-turned-vegetable-farm on the shoreline of the East River in Greenpoint, North Brooklyn. I believe it's the only full-on commercial green roof growing in the country, to date. Built atop a sound stage warehouse by television and movie production company Broadway Stages, and installed by green roof company Goode Green, the Eagle Street Rooftop Farm is entering its second spring this year. I aim to produce enough food to supply area restaurants, a weekly farm-based market, and a new community supported agriculture (CSA) subscription program that runs the length of New York City's 22-week growing season.

In addition to food production, the Rooftop Farm hosts classes and workshops on composting, beekeeping, greenroofs, seeds, and soil. The educational arm of the farm is an offshoot of Growing Chefs, a group I founded five years ago as a food education program. At the beginning I worked principally with children, and now with green-thumb-eager adults, teaching cooking and gardening—how to how to grow your own food, build culinary confidence, and compost. Now Growing Chefs includes a whole team of nutritionists, green thumbs, and foodies, all of whom are the most giving, cheerful people you've ever met. Simply, we believe that everyone should be empowered to eat well, and that to eat well encompasses the narrative of food from field to fork.

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Annie Novak is the founder and director of Growing Chefs, a field-to-fork food education program; the children's gardening program coordinator for the New York Botanical Gardens; and co-founder of Eagle Street Rooftop Farm in Brooklyn. More

Annie Novak is founder and director of Growing Chefs, a field-to-fork food education program; the children's gardening program coordinator for the New York Botanical Gardens; and co-founder of Eagle Street Rooftop Farm in Greenpoint, Brooklyn in partnership with Goode Green and Broadway Stages. Annie has worked with the CENYC Greenmarket, Slow Food, and Just Food advocating and growing urban agriculture throughout New York City. Her work in agriculture has been featured in New York Magazine, Edible Brooklyn , and on the Martha Stewart Show.

A lifelong vegetarian, Annie's passion for agriculture began while she was working in Ghana with West African chocolate farmers. She has since followed food to its roots in Ghana, Burkina Faso, Togo, Benin, Turkey, Peru, Bolivia, Argentina, Fiji, New Zealand, the Cook Islands, Alaska, and the American West and Midwest; her adventures are cheerfully blogged at growingchefs.org .

Since 2005, Annie has worked with the Meerkat Media Collective to write, produce, act and film in several films and documentaries. Her work has been screened in New York City and in festivals across the country. Titles include award-winning felt animation WWee Dark Hours and My Felt Bike; award-winning documentary short Every Third Bite; and narrative feature-length film A Little Death.

In her free time, Annie has run five marathons, builds and races bicycles, and birdwatches. She graduated from Sarah Lawrence College in 2005.

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