Adapted from Deborah Madison's Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone, this method balances the sweetness of summer squash with the heat of cayenne and the tang of yogurt. Though not a particularly attractive dish, it was enough to turn the writer's disdain for summer squash into praise.

Serves one generously

For the yogurt sauce:
    • 1 cup plain yogurt
    • 1⁄3 cup feta cheese
    • ¾ tsp Hungarian paprika (substitute cayenne if you want more heat)
    • 1 teaspoon salt
    • 1 clove garlic

For the hash:
    • 1 medium summer squash
    • olive oil
    • salt

Mix together the yogurt and feta cheese, mashing the cheese against the back of a fork to break it up into small pieces. Grind the garlic into a paste with a mortar and pestle, and add it to the yogurt mixture. Add the salt and paprika or cayenne, and stir until thoroughly combined.

Grate the summer squash into a coarse hash.

Heat the olive oil in a large skillet, then add the summer squash and salt and sauté until some pieces are browned, which will take about 10 minutes.

Pile the squash on a plate and top with a few tablespoons sauce. Toss to mix together.