Spain's Sexy, Stylish Olive Oil

Royal Olive Oil from Spain. Just to be clear in the copy since there's no way you'd know from just reading it, "Royal" here should be said in Spanish, not in English. As in, "Roy-al" with the "Al" like it would be someone's name. And it refers not any kind of imperial court, but rather to a very old olive varietal from Southern Spain. That said, now that I think about it, the oil is so good it would well warrant getting a Royal Seal of some sort so you could just use the word here as something of a edible double entendre.

Anyways, aside from all those fairly irrelevant etymological exercises, I think I first tasted this oil from the Vaño family at the Alimentaria show in Barcelona a few years back. Their Castillo de Canena Picual oil, which we've been carrying for a few years now, was really already one of my favorites. To my taste one of a handful of Picual oils that I think (not everyone will agree, I know) avoid some of the less than desirable (again, my opinion, not everyone's) flavors that can come from that varietal. To me their Picual oil is very tasty, big, pretty bold flavor, long lasting very clean and pleasant finish. The Royal oil is right there with it--very different set of flavors but all the good work that goes into the agronomy, the picking and the pressing are making for a second, different but equally excellent oil.

Our dry goods manager says it's a very sexy oil, and I think she's right.

The Vano's farm and press in the town of Canena, in the district of Jaen, in Southern Spain. The land is in the Guadalquiver Valley, running along the Guadiana Menor River so the trees are drawing water naturally in that way. Written documentation of the family's ownership of the land dates to 1780 (what Russian village my ancestors were working in back then I have no idea. I know they didn't own any land.). The castle itself was built in the first half of the 16th century, designed by Francisco de los Cobos, who was the secretary of emperor Charles V.

When I first met Francesco and Rosa Vano they mentioned that they were working on this oil--they hadn't yet sold any, but they were starting to give tastes to good customers to let them know it was coming. The Royal's history is even older than the Vano link to their land--Rosa told me it predates the Picual in the Jaen area. It's little known outside the area and it seems that hardly anyone grows it any more.

To my (limited, of course) knowledge no one other the Castillo de Canena is bottling it as a straight varietal. Like so many of the old olive types, the yields on the Royal are low--it's harder to grow and harder to harvest, so, not shockingly, there are fewer and fewer of the trees left. The Vanos found some up in the mountains and replanted them on their land at Canena a number of years ago. Today they have about 45 acres of Royal planted. (For context, there are about 6,000,000 total acres of olives planted in the country.)

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Ari Weinzweig is co-founder of Zingerman's Community of Businesses, in Ann Arbor, Michigan. He is also the author of Zingerman's Guide to Good Eating. More

After graduating from University of Michigan with a degree in Russian history, Ari Weinzweig went to work washing dishes in a local restaurant and soon discovered that he loved the food business. Along with his partner Paul Saginaw, Ari started Zingerman's Delicatessen in 1982 with a $20,000 bank loan, a staff of two, a small selection of great-tasting specialty foods, and a relatively short sandwich menu. Today, Zingerman's is a community of businesses that employs over 500 people and includes a bakery, creamery, sit-down restaurant, training company, coffee roaster, and mail order service. Ari is the author of the best-selling Zingerman's Guide to Good Eating and the forthcoming Zingerman's Guide to Better Bacon.

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