You Thought GMOs Were A Headache?

All wine may want to be red, but not all wine drinkers want to wake up with a terrible headache--or get one almost immediately, as I have irritatingly experienced, given my love of red wine.

Now James McWilliams points out the existence of a genetically modified yeast whose developer claims that it greatly reduces the risk of a headache. You won't get any, at least not knowingly, from California or Canada, the only wine-producing countries that allow the use of genetically modified yeast in wine. And the wineries that do use it or too skittish to say so on the label, because of the failure of U.S. regulators pressured by industry to require the declaration on any label that the food or beverage within contains GMOs. And, of course, you won't get it in any organic wine, which also forbids the use (knowing, at least) of GMOs.

Suppose you want some, though, because you get fierce headaches? But you instinctively loathe the idea of permitting the use of GMOs, let alone knowingly consuming foods that contain them? McWilliams is a practiced provocateur who tells us things we need to know, even if they confuse us. And even when we haven't had a drop of wine.

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Corby Kummer's work in The Atlantic has established him as one of the most widely read, authoritative, and creative food writers in the United States. The San Francisco Examiner pronounced him "a dean among food writers in America." More

Corby Kummer's work in The Atlantic has established him as one of the most widely read, authoritative, and creative food writers in the United States. The San Francisco Examiner pronounced him "a dean among food writers in America." Julia Child once said, "I think he's a very good food writer. He really does his homework. As a reporter and a writer he takes his work very seriously." Kummer's 1990 Atlantic series about coffee was heralded by foodies and the general public alike. The response to his recommendations about coffees and coffee-makers was typical--suppliers scrambled to meet the demand. As Giorgio Deluca, co-founder of New York's epicurean grocery Dean & Deluca, says: "I can tell when Corby's pieces hit; the phone doesn't stop ringing." His book, The Joy of Coffee, based on his Atlantic series, was heralded by The New York Times as "the most definitive and engagingly written book on the subject to date." In nominating his work for a National Magazine Award (for which he became a finalist), the editors wrote: "Kummer treats food as if its preparation were something of a life sport: an activity to be pursued regularly and healthfully by knowledgeable people who demand quality." Kummer's book The Pleasures of Slow Food celebrates local artisans who raise and prepare the foods of their regions with the love and expertise that come only with generations of practice. Kummer was restaurant critic of New York Magazine in 1995 and 1996 and since 1997 has served as restaurant critic for Boston Magazine. He is also a frequent food commentator on television and radio. He was educated at Yale, immediately after which he came to The Atlantic. He is the recipient of five James Beard Journalism Awards, including the MFK Fisher Distinguished Writing Award.

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