Today is Goatsday


Goats are cute. Admit it. They're also on every hillside and mountaintop in Europe, or seem to be. But not here, mostly, unless farmers have imported them.

On the Farm contributors Bill and Nicolette Hahn Niman have cast their lot with goats, and will be trying to do for them what Bill did for beef and pork. Will they succeed in making Americans think of goat as the Other Red Meat? We'll see, and happily we'll be hearing much more about their experiences raising goats in Bolinas on their BN Ranch.

Already my own New England is starting, slowly to catch on, and this afternoon Peter Smith will be telling us about a surprising resurgence of goat-raising in Maine and new market for red meat in what he continually reminds us is a very white state.

For now, though, if you want to try goat meat, Eleanor Barkhorn has assembled a list of restaurants where you can find it; like everything that isn't factory-raised, meat has a season, and this isn't it--that'll be the fall.

And if you want to see whether you actually like goat cheese or not--if you're a cheese-lover who continually walks the line between objecting to goatiness and thinking Gee, this isn't so bad after all, in fact it's really pretty good (like me, okay I admit it), Daphne Zepos gives us a very alluring, lemony way to try it from a cheesemonger I'm eager to visit if she has other ideas that sound half so nice as this one.

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Corby Kummer's work in The Atlantic has established him as one of the most widely read, authoritative, and creative food writers in the United States. The San Francisco Examiner pronounced him "a dean among food writers in America." More

Corby Kummer's work in The Atlantic has established him as one of the most widely read, authoritative, and creative food writers in the United States. The San Francisco Examiner pronounced him "a dean among food writers in America." Julia Child once said, "I think he's a very good food writer. He really does his homework. As a reporter and a writer he takes his work very seriously." Kummer's 1990 Atlantic series about coffee was heralded by foodies and the general public alike. The response to his recommendations about coffees and coffee-makers was typical--suppliers scrambled to meet the demand. As Giorgio Deluca, co-founder of New York's epicurean grocery Dean & Deluca, says: "I can tell when Corby's pieces hit; the phone doesn't stop ringing." His book, The Joy of Coffee, based on his Atlantic series, was heralded by The New York Times as "the most definitive and engagingly written book on the subject to date." In nominating his work for a National Magazine Award (for which he became a finalist), the editors wrote: "Kummer treats food as if its preparation were something of a life sport: an activity to be pursued regularly and healthfully by knowledgeable people who demand quality." Kummer's book The Pleasures of Slow Food celebrates local artisans who raise and prepare the foods of their regions with the love and expertise that come only with generations of practice. Kummer was restaurant critic of New York Magazine in 1995 and 1996 and since 1997 has served as restaurant critic for Boston Magazine. He is also a frequent food commentator on television and radio. He was educated at Yale, immediately after which he came to The Atlantic. He is the recipient of five James Beard Journalism Awards, including the MFK Fisher Distinguished Writing Award.
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