A New Use For Goat Cheese

Zepos june 18 wolcott post.jpg

Photo by Daphne Zepos

Springtime. Nanny goats are at the end of kidding season and producing more milk than at any other time of year. An abundance of fresh little goat cheeses floods the cheese market.

Among the imaginative cheesemongers who seek new ways to experience this seasonal wealth is Suzanne Wolcott at Binny's in Chicago, who marinates, spices, and enhances those little cheeses with incredible dexterity.

As an example: she uses one of Judy Shad's Capriole hand-ladled chèvre rounds to make a slightly sweet, lemony dessert. The idea, she points out, is to turn the little goat cheese into dessert without having to use it as an ingredient. This way, you keep the integrity and character of the cheese.

She blots the cheese with paper to dry off some of the whey, then adds a spoonful of lemon curd on the top. "I thought of the lemon curd because Judy's cheeses are mild and lemony in flavor," she says. Then she pours a mixture of pale wildflower honey syrup diluted with elderflower liqueur over the round and lets it soak for three days.

All the flavors meld and blend in with the cheese to transform it into a refreshing, mild, delicate, dessert. Here she has decorated it with unpeeled marcona almonds from Spain, a thin wedge of lemon, and a few lemon leaves.

At Binny's Bar, they serve Suzanne's cheese with an elderflower champagne cocktail, but it works well all on its own

Binny's Beverage Depot
1132 South Jefferson
Chicago, IL 60607
(312) 768-4400

Presented by

Daphne Zepos ranks among the most outspoken and dynamic cheese advocates in the United States. More

Daphne Zepos ranks among the most outspoken and dynamic cheese advocates in the United States. She is a former board member for the American Cheese Society, and was Chairperson of the ACS Annual Cheese Competition from 1999 to 2002.

Why Is Google Making Human Skin?

Hidden away on Google’s campus, doctors at a world-class life sciences lab are trying to change the way people think about their health.

Join the Discussion

After you comment, click Post. If you’re not already logged in you will be asked to log in or register with Disqus.

Please note that The Atlantic's account system is separate from our commenting system. To log in or register with The Atlantic, use the Sign In button at the top of every page.

blog comments powered by Disqus

Videos

Why Is Google Making Human Skin?

Hidden away on Google’s campus, doctors are changing the way people think about health.

Video

How to Build a Tornado

A Canadian inventor believes his tornado machine could solve the world's energy crisis.

Video

A New York City Minute, Frozen in Time

This short film takes you on a whirling tour of the Big Apple

Video

What Happened to the Milky Way?

Light pollution has taken away our ability to see the stars. Can we save the night sky?

Video

The Pentagon's $1.5 Trillion Mistake

The F-35 fighter jet was supposed to do everything. Instead, it can barely do anything.

More in Health

Just In