Graeme Wood

Graeme Wood is a contributing editor at The Atlantic. His personal site is

  • Mexico's Lawless Roads

    SAN LUIS POTOSI -- Seventy years ago, Graham Greene crossed the US-Mexican border into a land blighted by violence, unrest, insurgency, and religious…

  • Not all News is Bad News

    Other, happier parts of the Atlantic site have two new pieces by me. Click here to learn about chocolate made from camel's milk, and here to find…

  • The Answer, My Friend ...

    Our correspondent makes a pilgrimage to Bob Dylan's hometown in search of the source of his bizarre accent.

  • Desert Dessert: Camel-Milk Chocolate

    Camels may be loud, smelly, and unappetizing, but their milk is a surprisingly good ingredient in chocolate.

  • Policemen's Revenge

    SHERGAH -- The village of Shergah is near the police headquarters in Khakriz. In a long afternoon, the police could march there, search the multiple…

  • An Even Shorter Walk in the Hindu Kush

    KHAKRIZ -- I mentioned recently that the Taliban call the headquarters of Hajji Muhammad Abdul Wahhab, the Khakriz district leader, "the Toilet." One…

  • Counterinsurgents on Patrol

    CHENAR -- When NATO soldiers arrive in a new and potentially hostile settlement, they talk to villagers and listen for signs, however oblique or…

  • Slow Roll into Taliban Country

    KHAKRIZ -- Hajji Muhammad Abdul Wahhab, the district leader of Khakriz, recently sent his superiors a desperate message. Kharkiz had become like a…

  • A Brutal Siesta

    ARGHANDAB -- The Afghan National Army has small bases in Arghandab, just outside Kandahar, and a handful of armored vehicles have assembled outside…

  • Kandahar's Scenic Route

    ARGHANDAB - The Royal 22e Régiment, based in Quebec City, provides the bulk of the force to the Canadian Battle Group in Kandahar province. Known…

  • Mengele's Undisclosed Location

    HOHENAU -- Paraguay's national addiction is yerba mate, a holly bush that when ground to a coarse powder and steeped in scalding water creates a…

  • A Crowded, Lonely Grave

    ITA -- Paraguayan soil is a dark, rich red, the same ferrous color that stained my white socks when I visited Mississippi as a boy. Since I have…

  • Martin Bormann has a Stomachache

    ASUNCION -- In his last day in the Bunker, to ensure that his beloved Alsatian Blondi would never walk at the end of a Soviet leash, Hitler ordered…

  • Jose Mengele, Paraguayan

    ASUNCION -- Mengele grew up in Guenzburg, Bavaria. Guenzburg is the present-day site of Legoland Deutschland and is just a couple hundred miles from…

  • A Paradise-Haunted Land

    ASUNCION -- Like many before them, the Nazis came to Paraguay as a last resort. In those years, crossing the equator for an unknown southern land…

  • On the Nazi Trail

    ASUNCION -- Dr. Josef Mengele, Auschwitz's Angel of Death, first traveled to Paraguay in 1951, at the age of 40. He represented his father's Bavarian…

  • Air Kandahar

    KANDAHAR AIRFIELD -- The man in the photo below spent nearly three decades in the Canadian military, and then, working for the private military…

  • Roadside Attractions

    HELMAND - The blackened crater on the road from Goreshk to Lashkar Gah is enough to give anyone pause. Some pause to ogle -- the British MP in my…

  • Helmand: A Nepalese View

    This post is by Anup Kaphle. HELMAND - I am not used to my appearance working in my favor. But one of the most frequent compliments I've bagged in…

  • Marines Rush In

    HELMAND - Residents of Helmand, the southern Afghanistan province that the US Marines are currently storming in their biggest operation since…


How to Cook Spaghetti Squash (and Why)

Cooking for yourself is one of the surest ways to eat well.


Before Tinder, a Tree

Looking for your soulmate? Write a letter to the "Bridegroom's Oak" in Germany.


The Health Benefits of Going Outside

People spend too much time indoors. One solution: ecotherapy.


Where High Tech Meets the 1950s

Why did Green Bank, West Virginia, ban wireless signals? For science.


Yes, Quidditch Is Real

How J.K. Rowling's magical sport spread from Hogwarts to college campuses


Would You Live in a Treehouse?

A treehouse can be an ideal office space, vacation rental, and way of reconnecting with your youth.



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