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Atlantic Unbound | Archive
Corby Kummer
Kummer's 1990 Atlantic series about coffee was heralded by foodies and the general public alike. The response to his recommendations about coffees and coffee-makers was typical—suppliers scrambled to meet the demand. As Giorgio Deluca, co-founder of New York's epicurean grocery Dean & Deluca, says: ''I can tell when Corby's pieces hit; the phone doesn't stop ringing." His book, The Joy of Coffee, based on his Atlantic series, was heralded by The New York Times as "the most definitive and engagingly written book on the subject to date.'' In nominating his work for a National Magazine Award (for which he became a finalist), the editors wrote: "Kummer treats food as if its preparation were something of a life sport: an activity to be pursued regularly and healthfully by knowledgeable people who demand quality." Kummer's book The Pleasures of Slow Food celebrates local artisans who raise and prepare the foods of their regions with the love and expertise that come only with generations of practice. Kummer was restaurant critic of New York Magazine in 1995 and 1996 and since 1997 has served as restaurant critic for Boston Magazine. He is also a frequent food commentator on television and radio. He was educated at Yale, and came to The Atlantic Monthly in 1981. He is the recipient of three James Beard Journalism Awards, including the MFK Fisher Distinguished Writing Award. Recent articles by Corby Kummer: Cooking for a Sunday DayAt Irma’s in Houston, Mexican food is in the right hands—mothers’ and grandmothers’. [Web only: Slideshow: "Lunch With Irma"] Beyond the McIntoshOne man’s mission to save abandoned (and glorious) apples by helping people plant for the future. A Papaya Grows in HolyokeA crime-plagued mill town in Massachusetts has discovered the roots of urban renewal. Simple PleasuresThree Tuscan recipes to welcome spring. Slow Food, High GearA new university in Italy aims to elevate gastronomy to an academic discipline—and put its students through a humbling workout. [Web only: Slideshow: "A Slow Food Tour of the Po Valley"] The Magic Brewing MachineCool new coffeemakers bring out the deeper pleasures of a light roast. The Art of Aging WellA cult destination in London has revolutionized cheesemaking, winning converts as far afield as Vermont. In and Over SconesWhere to find the best scones and toppings. The Secret of the Irish SconeAt Camp Bread, in San Francisco, a baker rehabilitates one of the most frequently abused members of the pastry family. The Rise of the SardineWill Cannery Row’s signature fish transcend its humble reputation to become a chef’s staple? It should. The Supermarket of the FutureAn exciting new Italian bazaar makes Whole Foods look like the A&P—and it’s coming to America. Cool CutsThree must-own knives—and a really desirable optional one. Never a Dull MomentWhat to look for when buying knives. Fat CityBanning trans fats probably makes sense from a public-health standpoint—but will the doughnut survive? Northern ComfortThe best way to make rice pudding is always your grandmother’s. Dumbing Down WineChain stores threaten to destroy independent wineshops— and your chances of finding interesting wine. Out of the Frying PanDinner cooked in plastic bags may sound more like airplane food than haute cuisine—but today, thanks to a cutting-edge culinary technique, it’s both. The Five Main Pacific SalmonAnd how they taste. Salmon TimeOur correspondent ventures to Alaska to learn when to eat wild salmon—and how to find it even when it’s not in season. Wine TherapyWhat makes the wines of San Patrignano so distinctive? It’s not just the grapes. Zins OnlineA few choice wines for summer, and where to find them. DeliveranceThe future of shopping for fresh fruits and vegetables. Sweet TeaCan one of the world’s oldest drinks help solve one of this country’s newest problems—the sugar epidemic? Two idealistic entrepreneurs think so. Madrid FusionThe pleasures and perils of the Spanish gastronomic avant-garde. Five Chefs Under the InfluenceU.S. restaurants at the crest of the Spanish new wave. The Rioja RenaissanceAn old Spanish wine takes on new life. Spring ChickensHeirloom poultry is poised to become “the other red meat”—if fears about avian flu don’t keep people away. GrignolinoItaly's Beaujolais is as rare as good chicken. Open for BusinessA post-Katrina visit to the restaurants of New Orleans, where eating out has become essential group therapy. The SazeracThe New Orleans cocktail of choice. Domestic ReservesAmericans no longer need to look abroad to satisfy their need for oil—Tuscan-style olive oil, that is. Merlot for SnobsA Long Island winery is challenging Merlot's deservedly dismal reputation. Better BaconA new cult takes hold. Sweet Home LouisianaSampling artisanal rum from New Orleans—and one of the city's signature desserts. The Kosher ConversionThe market for kosher food is growing, for reasons both practical and spiritual. Flavorless No MoreSmall batch by small batch, the makers of a new artisanal vodka have tapped into the market for America's best-selling spirits. Good-bye, CryovacImagine college food for which students will fake IDs, write rap songs, and line up outside the dining-hall door. Principled Pork"Sustainable farming" is now open to debate and commercial exploitation. But sustainable pork certainly tastes the way pork should. Going With The GrainTrue wild rice, for the past twenty years nearly impossible to find, is slowly being nurtured back to market. Pride of PlaceOregon's artisan Pinot Noir growers are the garagistes of the Pacific Northwest. Their Show of ShowsBackstage with a troubled, now legendary Sondheim musical. Big Organic, Small OrganicOrganic food may be coming from bigger and bigger producers, but the best flavor is still coming from organic farms, as a case study of good and great yogurt makes plain. A New ChestnutThe work of a dedicated few may eventually restore America's blighted chestnut forest to their former vastness. One happy consequence can already be tasted. Back To GrassThe old way of raising cattle is now the new way—better for the animals and better for your table. Stuffed Smoked SablefishPacific Northwest ingredients, Asian theme. Grapes of GasconyA vintners' cooperative in southwestern France is creating impressive new wines from rare old varieties. Duck Sauce À La BidouzeA simple—and libertine—Gascon dish. Quinoa SoupA traditional staple of the high, cool Andes. Sole CardinaleA variation on a Baltimore seafood legend. Maine CertifiedThe potatoes of September. ChampA one-dish supper of buttery mashed potatoes and greens. Il Trappeto & la PeschieraRestaurants worth building a trip around. Cal PepRestaurants worth building a trip around. Colvin Run TavernRestaurants worth building a trip around. Fore StreetRestaurants worth building a trip around. DanielRestaurants worth building a trip around. Moore's Stone CrabRestaurants worth building a trip around. Five Lakes GrillRestaurants worth building a trip around. Sweet and IntenseThe wine that made Ontario famous. Restaurant Vila LisaIntroducing a new series: restaurants worth building a trip around. Potato SaladThe German version is surprisingly light and intensely flavored. The Stationery SelfThere is no substitute for engraved writing paper. Pesto By HandThe oldest—and still the best—way to make most people's favorite pasta sauce need not be the most laborious. Belgian and BubblyBelgium's abbey-style ales, now being brewed in America, get their marvelously deep flavors from the méthode champenoise. An Italian Meal for AutumnRicotta Gnocchi with Roasted Wild Mushrooms and Shaved Vegetable Salad. PastaAn inquiry into a few fundamental questions: How did spaghetti and meatballs, a dish no Italian recognizes, become so popular here? What makes some brands of pasta much better than others? What's so special about fresh pasta? What do Italians know about cooking pasta that Americans don't? |
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Corby Kummer's work in The Atlantic has established him as one of the most widely read, authoritative, and creative food writers in the United States. The San Francisco Examiner pronounced him "a dean among food writers in America." Julia Child once said, "I think he's a very good food writer. He really does his homework. As a reporter and a writer he takes his work very seriously."