U.S. restaurants at the crest of the Spanish new wave
by Corby Kummer
Five Chefs Under the Influence
Minibar, 405 8th Street NW, Washington, D.C., www.cafeatlantico.com. Four chefs, six stools, two seatings for course tastings devised by José Andrés, who began working for Ferrán Adrià at sixteen.
Ureña, 37 East 28th Street, New York City, 212-213-2328. Alex Ureña, a native of the Dominican Republic who worked in numerous high-profile kitchens in New York and Spain, has just opened his tribute to the new Spanish revolution, with a kitchen stocked with the requisite gadgets.
wd~50, 50 Clinton Street, New York City, 212-477-2900. Providence native Wylie Dufresne calls his food “New American,” but Spain is a clear influence on his provocative menu.
Alinea, 1723 North Halsted Street, Chicago, 312-867-0110. Deliberately disorienting food from Grant Achatz, one of the wildest and most acclaimed of the country’s experimental chefs.
Bastide, 8475 Melrose Place, Los Angeles, 323-651-5950. Chef Ludovic Levebre trained in his native France with post–nouvelle cuisine chefs; the owners of the popular restaurant in Los Angeles, where he made his mark, will soon reopen it under a new name as a showcase for his novelties.
Corby Kummer is an Atlantic senior editor and the curator of the food channel on theatlantic.com.
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