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Pursuits & Retreats
March 2006 Atlantic Monthly
Morocco: Where to Stay and What to EatAzemmour
Azemmour is an easy trip from Casablanca, about two hours away. Accommodations in the town itself are limited; try the basic Hôtel de la Poste, with its traditional Moroccan restaurant. More lodging and dining options can be found in nearby El Jadida (grands taxis make the drive in about twenty minutes). The Sofitel Royal Golf El Jadida offers upscale, oceanfront rooms and an eighteen-hole golf course. Hôtel de la Poste During the day, stop by the Café El Manzeh on the Boulevard Mohammed V, one of many small cafés in the town centers of Azemmour and Sidi Ifni. Enjoy dinner at the Restaurant le Tit or the Restaurant Ali Baba, both in El Jadida. Restaurant le Tit Essaouira
For accommodations that offer both elegance and coziness, stay at the Villa Maroc, a series of traditional houses built around interior gardens known as riads. Book well in advance, though: the hotel is very well known and has only twenty rooms. Villa Maroc If you are planning to stay in Essaouira for more than a couple of days, consider renting through Jack’s Kiosk. You’ll find beautiful apartments featuring Moroccan décor and including a living room, kitchen, bedroom, and bathroom. Jack’s Kiosk Café Taros is a wonderful spot to spend an evening, particularly if you speak French. The café’s French owner often circulates and chats with guests as they dine. Café Taros Finally, Essaouria’s open-air grills by the port are the highlight of any visit to the town. Enjoy shrimp, squid, crabs, mussels, mackerel, and monkfish fresh out of the water. Sidi Ifni
The Hôtel Suerte Loca, a distinctive building with a blue-and-white facade, is a charming and friendly place to stay. The family that runs the hotel speaks English and can provide advice about where to go and what to do. Hôtel Suerte Loca Hôtel Belle Vue, right on the town’s main place, is another comfortable option. Hôtel Belle Vue For lunch try one of the cafés in the town center; in the evening dine at the popular restaurants in either of the above hotels.
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