Foie Gras Jelly Donut, $16

Le-pigeon-2

by Patrick Appel

Scott Gold found one on a menu:

Le Pigeon’s executive chef, Gabriel Rucker a 2007 Food and Wine Best New Chef clearly knew what he was doing.  He’s become part of a new breed of cook, the kind that brashly gives the middle finger salute to all conventional wisdom regarding food, health and nutrition.  Like Mario Batali’s generous employment of lardo crudo or Au Pied de Cochon’s Martin Picard topping his signature poutine (french fries covered in cheese curds and gravy) with, yes, foie gras, Rucker joins the movement of culinary maximalism currently sweeping America’s food scene.  Especially in Portland, as evidenced by the borderline insane “Voodoo Doughnut Cheeseburger” at The Original, and Voodoo’s own Maple Bacon Bar.  This trend is obviously a backlash, a thumbing of collective noses against years of picky eaters, sauce-on-siders, vegans and other dietary malcontents so frequently bemoaned by fine-dining chefs, as well as a celebration of that delightful category of ingredients that will likely send you both literally and figuratively to heaven.  Moderation and good common dietary sense have no place here.


(Hat tip: Bainbridge)

2006-2011 archives for The Daily Dish, featuring Andrew Sullivan

How to Cook Spaghetti Squash (and Why)

Cooking for yourself is one of the surest ways to eat well. Bestselling author Mark Bittman teaches James Hamblin the recipe that everyone is Googling.

Join the Discussion

After you comment, click Post. If you’re not already logged in you will be asked to log in or register.

blog comments powered by Disqus

Video

How to Cook Spaghetti Squash (and Why)

Cooking for yourself is one of the surest ways to eat well.

Video

Before Tinder, a Tree

Looking for your soulmate? Write a letter to the "Bridegroom's Oak" in Germany.

Video

The Health Benefits of Going Outside

People spend too much time indoors. One solution: ecotherapy.

Video

Where High Tech Meets the 1950s

Why did Green Bank, West Virginia, ban wireless signals? For science.

Video

Yes, Quidditch Is Real

How J.K. Rowling's magical sport spread from Hogwarts to college campuses

Video

Would You Live in a Treehouse?

A treehouse can be an ideal office space, vacation rental, and way of reconnecting with your youth.

Just In