Foie Gras Jelly Donut, $16

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Le-pigeon-2

by Patrick Appel

Scott Gold found one on a menu:

Le Pigeon’s executive chef, Gabriel Rucker a 2007 Food and Wine Best New Chef clearly knew what he was doing.  He’s become part of a new breed of cook, the kind that brashly gives the middle finger salute to all conventional wisdom regarding food, health and nutrition.  Like Mario Batali’s generous employment of lardo crudo or Au Pied de Cochon’s Martin Picard topping his signature poutine (french fries covered in cheese curds and gravy) with, yes, foie gras, Rucker joins the movement of culinary maximalism currently sweeping America’s food scene.  Especially in Portland, as evidenced by the borderline insane “Voodoo Doughnut Cheeseburger” at The Original, and Voodoo’s own Maple Bacon Bar.  This trend is obviously a backlash, a thumbing of collective noses against years of picky eaters, sauce-on-siders, vegans and other dietary malcontents so frequently bemoaned by fine-dining chefs, as well as a celebration of that delightful category of ingredients that will likely send you both literally and figuratively to heaven.  Moderation and good common dietary sense have no place here.


(Hat tip: Bainbridge)

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