Like most Americans, I understand the value of commerce and the benefits that flow from private enterprise. I recognize that the profit motive leads to innovation, jobs, the provision of specialized services, and a general uplifting of the quality of life. By seeking resources to establish a business - resources from people who believe the business's success will help them improve their own conditions - society advances.
Or not. For here it matters exactly what we mean by "business."
On the one hand, there are the auto companies that for years built cars that were too big, soaked up too much energy, and drove American consumers into the arms of Japanese, Korean, German, and Swedish automakers. And that ultimately reached deep into the federal treasury so that all of us who did not buy their cars would bail them out, keep them operating, and keep their salaries high. As with the banks and other financial institutions that played clever, manipulative games, producing little of real value other than moving vast amounts of capital from A to B in a giant shell game and racking up massive salaries and bonuses as their games plunged the country into recession and drove "the little people" out of jobs and homes. These "giants" provide ample proof that not all products that can be produced should be produced and that not all services that can be provided should be provided. What was missing in those cases was a moral compass. There are those who argue that business is not about morality but only about profit and providing maximum return to shareholders. But that suggests that there are no real human beings - people who have to face themselves in the mirror every morning - at the helm.
And then there is "Jake's." Jake's is not General Motors or the Bank of America. It is a seafood restaurant perched between bay and ocean in the tiny town of Hull, Massachusetts, at the tip of Nantasket Peninsula. Hull, known mostly for its beach and boardwalk, is next door to Hingham, where I live, and the drive to Hull and Jake's is a central part of my Massachusetts life.
But this is not about Jake's, per se. It is about the business of business.
To get to Jake's is easy; to get into Jake's is a bit harder. Both spacious dining rooms are invariably packed, with jeans- and shorts-clad customers filling the entryway and spilling out into the parking lot. Booths and tables alike may be filled to capacity, a dozen at a table not uncommon. If AIG, Morgan Stanley, and GM are the ugly face of American business, Jake's is its saving grace.
This is not accidental, and the lesson Jake's teaches is all about what is right with our economic system and, by contrast, what is wrong with it.
Jake's has the best seafood I have ever eaten, and I've eaten a lot of it. These aren't your dainty little tidbits covered with cutesy sauces and creams: what one gets at Jake's are huge slabs of perfectly grilled fish - king salmon, swordfish, tilapia, haddock, you name it. Lobster, clams, crab, steamers. Onion rings to write home about. Pies that defy description unless the description begins with "yum." These are eaten in dining rooms that are loud and boisterous and joyous. And all of this is because to its owners, Jake's is personal.
Ed O'Brien, who bought the place and transformed it years ago, is 80 now. But "the captain" is still at work, taking names (sorry; no reservations), assigning tables, and overseeing every small detail of service. His wife, after all these years, remains at the takeout counter, dealing with the flood of customers coming to take fish home. Their son, Jimmy, oversees the bustling kitchen (nobody can grill fish like Jimmy O'Brien). Maria and Barbie help the Captain man the desk, granddaughters are among the many hustling waiters, a daughter-in-law bakes the pies. This is a family business: O'Briens are everywhere. O'Briens, directly or by marriage, oversee every facet of the restaurant from selecting the fish when they arrive at Boston's docks to the time when they end up on a lucky customer's plate. The prices aren't cheap because the quality is - well, it's the best fish you'll ever taste.